Backyard chickens and roosters can be a great addition to your homestead. Backyard chickens, sometimes called urban chickens, are fowl breeds that you can raise in a typical backyard.
Raising chickens and roosters may not seem particularly glamorous in an aesthetic sense, but if you get creative, you can find ways to make your backyard really beautiful. Have a look at some chicken fence ideas to get a taste of what you can do with simple DIY projects. Your chickens and roosters might not take much notice, but you’ll have another reason to enjoy dealing with the admin of raising them. You can even use remaining chicken wire to create arts and crafts for inside your home.
Chickens are an excellent food source. They produce eggs. Later, as the chickens mature and their egg production declines, they produce meat.
Raising Backyard Chickens and Roosters
Chickens are trending as people become more concerned where their food comes. Raising chickens in their own backyard give people more control of the quality of eggs produced. Perhaps they choose to free range the chickens or feed them with organic feeds only. This significantly increases the health factor of the eggs and also the meat from the chicken. There are also people who sell eggs and who are keeping chickens as part of a survival or prepping plan.
And what about raising a rooster? Are you considering one? We explore all there is to know about roosters so you can make the right decision.
When it comes to rural living, it’s important to understand that a viable food source is recommended. The Bantam chicken may be one of the most useful for those living in rural areas.
They are tiny chickens that don’t require much space to produce a wonderful harvest of fresh eggs.
They have a lovely disposition and are not fond of moving around.
This is ideal for those looking to work with small spaces or who don’t have the land to build a chicken coop width-wise.
The Bantam enjoys jumping up and down, which allows them to survive in small spaces as long as they can jump around.
These chickens are bursting with personality and are very curious about their environment.
We want to provide you with quality information about the Bantam breed of chicken, so we will talk more about its characteristics.
History Bantam Chicken Breed
Explaining what a Bantam breed is can be a bit confusing because, unlike most chicken breeds, the word “Bantam” refers to its small stature, and not of its origin.
These small chickens don’t have a complete known origin, but the name was originally introduced back in the late 1800’s in Indonesia.
Sailors who would stop by the port city would refer to the chickens as being “Bantam” chicken due to being unique to the port city of Bantam, Indonesia.
After this, the breed had become popular in other suburban areas of the world for their small and convenient size.
There are three types of Bantam breed: True Bantams, Miniature Bantams, and Developed Bantams.
The True Bantams are naturally occurring in nature and are just small in stature.
The Miniaturized Bantams are bred from either a standard breed of choice or a specific small breed of chicken.
The last type, the Developed Bantams, is small breeds that have been genetically enhanced through humankind’s techniques.
After much genetic breeding, the true standard of Bantam was born and spread across the world.
The chicken generally does well in most warm climates, which makes it a favorite around the world.
However, it can be mixed with other breeds of chickens to help give them dominant traits.
We understand that it’s hard to keep up with Bantam. So, we’ve done our research and have provided a full list of most Bantam breeds.
Here’s a small breakdown of the popular ones:
True Bantams
Nankin
Sebright
Tuzo
Rumpless
Rosecomb
Developed Bantams
Old English Game
Belgian Bearded
Pekin
Frizzle
Japanese
Booted
Miniature Bantam
Light Sussex
Rhode Island Red
Maran
Australorp
Ancona
Araucana
Leghorn
As you can see, there are many different types of Bantam, which can be both good and bad.
Many of these allow for versatile breeding, but the genetic traits can be hard to pinpoint for the Developed and Miniature versions.
Bantam Chicken General Characteristics
With so many varieties, let us look into the characteristics that distinguish the Bantam breed in general.
Bantan Chicken Appearance
The appearance of Bantam can also be tough to explain due to their many genetic cross-breeds.
Some range from large birds with black or white specklings while others are brown and black.
Others result in crosses with warm-colored feathers such as white, cream, and red.
As you can see, they are very variable in genetics and looks.
The American Bantam Association has recently added over 400 different kinds of chickens to their Bantam Chicken Variety list.
This makes their appearance hard to describe.
That said, as mentioned earlier, what mainly distinguishes a Bantam breed is its small stature.
Many of the ones located in America are smaller than the standard size of chickens. These small Bantams weigh between 16 and 30 ounces and can be up to one half the size of a standard size six-pound chicken.
Some larger cross-breeds of Bantam, though, have started to become heavier.
The standard Bantam breed is either one third or three fourth the size smaller than the standard size breeds. This allows them to produce the same quality products without taking up much space.
With so many varieties, it should go without saying that these chickens can be used for plumage.
If you have multiple breeds of Bantam, you will essentially have plenty of different color varieties to choose from.
This can be good if you want to sell their feathers for some extra income.
Bantam Disposition and Behavior
As for the disposition of the Bantam breed, these chickens tend to be very friendly and overall have sweet temperaments.
They do well with other animals and are generally nice towards humans.
The roosters can be a bit aggressive towards each other and humans during mating seasons, but other than that, there are usually no problems.
Due to the large variety of the Bantam breed, we always recommend doing individualized research on the type you’re getting.
Genetics play a huge role when it comes to chicken temperament. If you research the mixes accordingly, then you should have no problem in finding their individualized temperaments.
Many Bantam breeds are very agile and love to move around.
Physical activity is a must for these small, energetic chickens, so they need to be able to rustle their feathers and move around.
A majority of them enjoy flapping their wings and jumping around.
If you can provide a place for them to roam, they will gladly appreciate it.
Bantam Chicken Egg Laying Habits
Bantam eggs are smaller than the standard version of eggs.
This is, of course, due to the chicken’s smaller stature.
If we were to compare them to other breeds’ eggs, they would be around half the size.
Many Bantam breeds don’t start producing eggs until almost eight months into their lifespan.
Ones linked to standard breeds, they tend to produce larger eggs and also lay a bit sooner.
It varies from chicken to chicken, though.
On average, the Bantam hen will lay around four to five eggs every seven days.
Some of the Bantam get broody while others don’t. It’s highly dependent upon what parents the chickens had.
If they were sex-linked with two non-brooders, then you can expect non-brooding behaviors.
That being said, we recommend you to get an incubator just in case you plan on breeding them or using them as starter eggs.
Sex Linkage
Sex-linkage is very hard to pinpoint due to them having over 400 different mixes.
The True Bantams are either from Nankin, Sebright’s, or Rose Comb chicken breeds.
On the other hand, Miniaturized Bantams were genetically enhanced with one parent chicken.
The common breeds for this are the Rhode Island Red, Orpingtons, or even the Cochin breeds.
As for Developed Bantams, they range in sex-linked genetics and parents.
Pinpointing which breeds are used is nearly impossible.
Nonetheless, we’ve tracked some of the common ones which were used in other countries to create the Developed Bantams.
These breeds are either the Cochin, Japanese, or Belgian chickens.
Common Health Issues of Bantam Chickens
The lifespan of most Bantams ranges from four to five years if kept healthy.
Many of the Bantam breeds are susceptible to either mite and lice and other diseases, but many health-related issues are due to poorly kept coops rather than genetics.
To ensure that they have good health, you must have the best nutrition plan for chickens and provide a portion of decent food and water source while also keeping their coops clean.
They also need to be kept in a warm coop; otherwise, they can easily get sick.
Many Bantam pass away from unknown illnesses.
Even professional poultry management has a hard time identifying any symptoms.
This could likely be due to recessive genetics or birth defects that were undetected.
The video below also discusses differences between bantams and standard chickens.
Is It Right for Your Homestead?
If you’re looking for a small chicken that can produce a steady flow of eggs, then you will be pleasantly surprised with the Bantam breed.
But if you’re looking to have a high egg producer, you may want to skip out on this breed.
They are good for suburban areas due to their small size, but this also yields smaller eggs and less nutrition.
For a homestead, they can be good if you’re limited on land.
We believe, though, that the large variety of looks and temperament can be useful if you find a few varieties with ideal traits you’re looking for in chickens.
Their price point isn’t that bad either, which can come in handy for beginners.
The Bantam chicken range in genetic factors and temperaments.
It is ideal for small spaces or suburban areas, so if you’re limited on space or want to add a small chicken coop to your homestead, this breed can help you achieve those goals.
Overall, these are cheerful and energetic chickens that can brighten up any space.
With enough room, they can easily produce up to four to five eggs per week.
This is enough to support most families, but you will need to remember that the eggs are smaller than standard breeds.
When it comes to dealing with Bantam breeds, we’d have to recommend to do your research before purchasing any. Delaware Chicken
It’s important to understand what type of Bantam it is and what breed the parents were.
This will give you a better idea of how the chicken will act and if you’re providing it with the necessary care.
Best Chicken Breeds – When it comes to building your backyard flock, it’s best to understand what chicken breeds are out there.
Whether you already have a flock or are planning on creating one, knowing the different breeds can help you find chickens that suit your lifestyle.
Multiple factors go into choosing which chicken breeds you need.
Considering the climate, whether or not you want to pluck the chickens, or even use them as a meat source are all the questions you need to ask yourself.
Knowing what type of chicken you want is how you can narrow down your search.
It can be a difficult task and can become exhausting researching each type, especially with so many breeds to choose from.
That’s why we’ve taken the time to list the top ten breeds you’d want for rural living.
Each of these chickens is the best type we could find.
We will describe the different breeds and which ones are ideal based on climate, temperament, and production.
Best Chicken Breeds to Choose From
Ameraucana Chicken Breed
The Ameraucana chicken breed is one of the heartiest, easiest and most enjoyable chicken breeds to have in your yard.
It’s a relatively new breed, having been created a mere fifty years ago, but it’s rapidly becoming one of the most popular backyard pets for people who love fresh eggs and low maintenance chickens.
The Ameraucana chicken is an upgraded version of the Araucana breed, which was known for having a fatal genetic flaw that seriously injured their bloodlines.
The Ameraucana is an upgraded version that doesn’t have the genetic flaw but retains all of the positive aspects of the Araucana.
Ameraucanas are notable for their beautiful blue-hued eggs.
Although these eggs are arguably much prettier to look at than brown or white eggs, they are just as nutritious.
Ameraucanas are very robust and easy-going creatures.
They are also relatively small, weighing only about six pounds.
You won’t have to do much to keep your lovely Ameraucanas happy, but they do like a little bit more room in their chicken coops.
Additionally, most of them will only lay about four eggs a week, and many start laying later than other types of chickens.
Even so, most fans of this chicken breed will agree that the benefits far outweigh the downsides.
Compared to other types of breeds, Ameraucanas are easy chickens to raise and could even make excellent pets.
Expect to have your Ameraucana chicken for about eight years, although their laying will slow down substantially in their later life.
Overall, these animals are prized among those who know chicken breeds.
You can’t beat their temperament, and they are highly unlikely to attack any of your other pets or children.
Additionally, they are hardy animals with health genes, so the chicks are likely to survive.
Of course, they also lay the best eggs.
Australorp Chicken
The American Poultry Association has deemed that the standard includes a pure black aesthetic.
However, there are black, blue, and white mixes with additions of other colors.
It’s a heavyset bird that can weigh around eight pounds but includes soft, lightweight feathers.
The Australorp Chicken is one of the best beginner-friendly chickens and best chicken breeds you can find on the market.
Any homestead or rural home can benefit from keeping a small flock, especially since the breed has dual-purpose.
Their eggs and their meat are high in nutrition and can provide a steady income or food source for the breeders.
An Australorp can lay up to 250 brown eggs annually, which are medium-sized.
If placed in an area with less stress and a free-range setup, they can produce even more eggs.
That said, their food and water will need to be adjusted accordingly.
Their temperament is easy going, and they are generally friendly to everyone around them.
Unlike other breeds, they don’t possess any aggressiveness or bully each other.
This makes them one of our most recommended birds, as beginners will find them easy to raise.
Major Downside:
The only downside we’ve found with this breed is that they are genetically born to thrive in hot environments.
Nonetheless, they are still one of the most common and ideal breeds we can think of for a newcomer.
Easter Egger Chickens
The Easter Egger is one of the most favored backyard breeds of any homestead owner.
These vibrant birds can produce a high number of eggs within one year.
Over the course of one year, they can lay up to 200 eggs.
What’s more interesting is that the Easter Egger got its title due to laying a wide variety of egg colors, including blue, pink, and green-tinted eggs.
If you’re looking for a mass egg producer, you may want to skip this breed, though.
They may produce high-quality eggs, but they are slow to start and produce less than other breeds.
Their plumage comes in multiple colors and can be useful for other crafts, though.
Additionally, caring for an Easter Egger chicken is quite simple.
They have outgoing personalities and do well with other flocks.
Their friendly demeanor makes them ideal for farms or small nests.
That said, they need a rich environment to explore.
Having a yard or gated area for them to freely roam is recommended.
Their disposition is friendly, and they are very good with other animals, but they do have a tendency to get picked on.
If you’re mixing them with other types of animals, it’s suggested to keep a watchful eye on them.
Other breeders also seclude their coop and allow each chicken to have their personal space.
Major Downside:
While we didn’t find any major disadvantages to owning them, we can list a few issues.
First, they enjoy open space and a rich environment, which means you can’t keep them in confinement.
They also need to have proper nutrition for the eggs to turn out well.
Finding ones that have been bred for specific genetic traits is your best bet.
Rhode Island Reds Chicken
Rhode Island Reds are one of the most common breeds used in farms across the world.
They are known for producing a high yield of eggs every year and having beautiful brown plumage.
Due to their aggressive behavior, though, it’s not recommended for beginners to raise them. They are prone to getting into fights with one another and can even pick on other animals.
If you’re going to attempt to raise them, you need to keep a careful eye on them so that they don’t act out.
While some Rhode Island Reds are bullies, others can be sweet and friendly.
The overall demeanor is very aggressive and independent.
They will walk around like they own the place and are known for being tricksters.
They are mainly territorial birds, so giving them their own space can greatly benefit animals around them.
As for their production rates, they tend to lay at least 300 eggs every year.
Weekly, you can expect them to lay five to six eggs every seven days.
These eggs are large and are light brown.
Other production includes using them as meat, and they don’t taste much different from your quality chicken at the supermarket.
Major Downside:
The only downside we’ve found with them is their behavior.
They can be extremely challenging for a beginner as you will need to train and prevent their aggressive attitude.
Once you have everything in control, it’s likely to become easier for you to manage.
Silkie Chickens
If you’re looking for chickens that have alluring appearances, the Silkie would be a good fit.
They are very popular due to their furry bodies and adorable demeanor.
They are commonly referred to as the teddy bear bird due to their fluffiness. Silkies may be challenging for beginners because they are very skittish and may need protection.
Particularly, if you have multiple breeds of chickens, they will become susceptible to bullying.
Placing them in a secluded area can help prevent them from being picked on.
Silkies lay around three eggs every week, which is one of the slowest out of them all.
You’ll get around 120 eggs each year, and they are small in size.
Compare this to your standard, and you’ll find that it’s almost nothing compared to other breeds.
If you’re going to get a Silkie, it should be for their personality and appearance.
These birds are amazingly docile and get along well with humans and other pets.
They tend to enjoy being in environments where they can come into contact with humans.
They also make lovely pets and will even play with children.
Major Downside:
The only downside we’ve found to the breed is that they are susceptible to bullying.
Other than that, there aren’t any other issues.
Their thick fur-like coat helps protect them in winter environments but may cause them to overheat if placed in a warm climate.
If placed into a warm climate, you must give them proper shade to hide from the sun.
Sussex Chickens
An easy-going breed that is suitable for beginners is the Sussex chicken.
They are dual-purpose and yield a high amount of eggs every year.
If you’re looking for a snappy bird that is both easy to control and comes in variable colors, then the Sussex is for you.
For production, the bird can produce up to 250 eggs each year.
This is around the average number that other chicken breeds can produce.
The main difference is that these birds can be used as a food source.
They are highly nutritional and can provide a steady source of meat for your family.
Their disposition is generally easy to handle, and they are rarely very active.
Breeders describe them as confident yet friendly.
They love to forage and explore, which makes them ideal for those looking to give them plenty of space.
Gardens and other greenery outdoors makes the perfect environment for this breed.
Overall, the Sussex is low maintenance birds and don’t require much effort to take care of.
They don’t need any supplements, special handling, or treatments.
This makes them ideal for first-time farmers or those looking to build a backyard coop.
That said, they can be susceptible to parasites, so it’s recommended to clean the coop when necessary.
Major Downside:
The only major downside we’ve been able to find is that they won’t produce a standard breed until paired with similar sex-linked roosters.
If not, you won’t have starter chickens that have the same genetics as their parents.
Instead, they will lose out and most likely have a whole host of health issues.
Plymouth Rock Chickens
Amongst all the heritage farm breeds, the Plymouth Rock chicken is the most popular.
They are known for having a zebra-like pattern and color scheme. Their first known trait, though, is that they have a calm demeanor and are perfect for those looking to expand their flock.
For production, the breed can produce up to 280 brown eggs annually.
To put this in perspective, most other breeds only reach 250 eggs every year.
If you’re not planning on using them for egg production, then they can also be used as a steady meat source.
The Plymouth Rock has a black and white barred feather look.
The barred colors are different between males and females.
It also has a large body and is one of the more robust chickens.
The females weigh around five pounds while males can get up to nine pounds.
As for their disposition, they are known for being friendly around other animals and people.
They make excellent pets and even welcome young children.
If you’re looking for a hen that can be more like a house pet, then you will definitely love the Plymouth Rock chicken.
Major Downside:
The only downside we’ve been able to find about them is that they are chatty.
They aren’t as loud as other birds, but they do tend to chatter amongst themselves.
This won’t bother the neighbors, but it can be a bit irritating if you’re not used to hearing constant chatter.
BlackStar Chickens
The Blackstar chicken is one of the most popular hybrid and best chicken breeds on the market.
They have unique, vibrant colors in their feathers and come in either brown, orange, or black.
It’s only been recently that these chickens were added to the backyard chicken world.
Blackstars are medium-sized chickens that weigh around six pounds.
They have a single red comb.
Their plumage is striking and fluffy, with many thick feathers sticking out.
As for production, you can expect the Blackstar to produce up to five eggs per week.
That’s over 250 eggs over a year.
These birds also have plenty of beautiful and unique plumage that is perfect for picking.
Their disposition is a bit different from others.
While they enjoy being free-range, they also enjoy their own space.
They are overall quiet and don’t produce much noise at all.
The breed is friendly with humans, other animals, and children.
Additionally, they are very tame and will even cuddle with you.
Major Downside
The only downside to this breed is that they aren’t reliable broody types.
If you plan to mass-produce the Blackstar, then it’s important to choose and get a good incubator.
This can help you reliably produce more chickens without having to rely on them sitting their eggs.
How Do I Know Which Chicken Breed Is Best?
Since it can be hard to narrow down the list even from the top ten we’ve mentioned, we’ll help walk you through how you can eliminate a few.
Here are some important considerations:
Climate
First, ask yourself what type of climate you’re going to be living in.
From there, eliminate breeds that don’t do well in hot or cold climates.
Purpose
After that, ask yourself what the main purpose is for your chicken production.
Are you planning on breeding them as pets?
Or are you planning on using them for eggs and meat?
What about plumage?
If you can narrow it down to those three, it becomes more apparent on which chickens you’ll want.
Additionally, for a rural living, it’s important to understand how much a chicken can support you.
Their eggs provide a constant source of food, nutrition, and protein.
With just a few hens, you can easily produce enough eggs for your family weekly.
If you’re looking to make a profit, they will overall exceed the number of eggs sold than the cost of raising them.
If you’re not planning on using their eggs, you can always switch to either using their plumage or using them as livestock.
Either way, once you have a small backyard set up, you can easily sustain yourself.
Their eggs will hatch, and you’ll have more chickens without having to invest more money.
Experience and Space
Lastly, think about what experience you have and how much space you’re able to provide the chickens.
If you’re a novice, then it’s best to avoid breeds that are either too skittish or too aggressive.
Additionally, those that need more than a confined space will need to be supervised as they roam freely outdoors.
After answering those questions, you should be able to narrow down your list to at least two to three different choices.
Just remember, we listed the most common and easy-to-breed chickens on this list.
However, there are numerous other breeds out there that may work well with your homestead.
Chicken breeders know that in warm and mild weather, chickens are fine with their water being placed in chicken water feeders, but it’s a different story in colder weather.
If you’re away for a short period, the best thing you can do for your chickens is invested in a proper chicken water heater, so they’ll have flowing water when they need it.
Chickens will get ill if you do not keep them appropriately hydrated – that is precisely what will happen if their water has frozen over so badly that they just can’t peck through it to drink.
So, let’s jump right into the best chicken water heaters to help you keep your chickens happy and healthy.
This Thermo-Poultry Waterer is a pricier option from K&H Pet Products but a favorite with chicken breeders everywhere.
It is thermostatically controlled, so the chickens’ water will remain ice-free in even the coldest weather.
Thermo Poultry Waterer Features
This is a gravity-type drinker that has a jug and a bottom tray where the chickens’ water is dispensed.
It is made of very sturdy plastic that is BPA free and features a comfortable handle making it easy to carry around and limiting spills.
With this product, you can expect the water filter ring to easily remove dirt and objects from the trough, keeping things cleaner for longer.
Thanks to its shape, roosting won’t occur, and the spill-proof cap helps prevent wasting of water.
The Thermo-Poultry Waterer comes with a sturdy cord, so you won’t have to worry about it splitting or not working within the first few months or years.
Whats Good about Thermo Poultry Waterer
The waterer is 2.5 gallons and is super easy to fill.
It comes with a removable screen in the water well that makes it very easy to clean out straw, feathers, and shavings.
Whats Bad about Thermo Poultry Waterer
Some users of this product have reported a bio-film forming that is impossible to remove, even with regular cleaning.
The container can be tricky to wash because of the size of its opening.
Thermo Poultry Waterer Pros
Easy to use
No water gets wasted
No roosting
Removable screen
Thermo Poultry Waterer Cons
Expensive
Won’t stay upright for filling
Harris Farms Heated Poultry Drinker Base Chicken Water Heater review
This is one of the more trusted waterers on the market that isn’t going to cost you an arm and a leg.
It will regulate the temperature of your water, making sure there is no freezing that will result in your chickens getting dehydrated.
Harris Farms Heated Poultry Drinker Base Features
You will get warm water even in the coldest winters with the Harris Farms Heated Poultry Drinker Base because its thermostat works really well.
You’ll be able to warm large amounts of water, so it’s a good buy for chicken breeders with larger flocks.
Harris Farms offer a drinker base that has 125W power, and it can be used with either plastic or metal drinkers alike.
However, it is not recommended for use with plastic as it can warm up water very effectively, but this could cause issues with plastic drinkers.
It makes keeping your chickens watered much easier.
With this guy, the water gets raised a few inches off the coop, keeping debris out of it.
Ease of use is great with this heater – you just plug it in and voila!
The thermostat is one of its greatest features.
Not only does it work really well, but it is also built to prevent overheating so you won’t be left with hot water that your poor chickens can’t enjoy.
Harris Farms Heated Poultry Drinker Base Pros
This product will keep your water thawed even when it gets really cold outside.
Its bottom is covered, so you won’t have to stress about it getting wet and damaged.
It also uses a float that will keep it sealed in really cold weather.
Efficient
Simple usage
Effective seal against cold
Harris Farms Heated Poultry Drinker Base Cons
The thermostat can become an issue – it can malfunction and keep the water warmer than it should.
Users have reported that it never turns off either.
Farm Innovators Heated Base For Metal Poultry Founts
This is a mid-range product that is affordable and effective – considered the best of both worlds.
It will prevent your chicken’s water from freezing down to 10 degrees Fahrenheit and comes with 125W power.
Farm Innovators Heated Base For Metal Poultry Founts Features
You will be hard-pressed to find a heater that is easier to use than this one.
You simply have to plug it in, fill it with water, and that’s it – job done on your side.
This is also a very versatile product – you can use it for any animal, really.
It can basically be seen as a water bowl for animals with a built-in heater for outside use of any pets.
This heated base is thermostatically controlled and will only start operating when the temperatures drop to below 35 degrees Fahrenheit.
The bottom is sealed off, so there is no way that critters like mice can make their way in and start chewing away.
The cord is nicely protected with hardy material, which means animals will not be able to chew through it and cause all kinds of chaos.
Mice tend to be a big problem for chicken breeders who have to use things like water heaters, but with this product, you will not have to worry about those poultry pests creating problems for you.
The thermostatic control that the Farm Innovators heater comes with means your water will be thawed, but it will not be reaching boiling temperatures.
Farm Innovators Heated Base For Metal Poultry Founts Pros
You will not have to worry about the temperatures with this product – it starts working as soon as it is needed.
It is a trusted heated base that is considered a great buy for its price and how well it works.
Comes highly recommended by chicken feeders
Works great in even the coldest weather
Farm Innovators Heated Base For Metal Poultry Founts Cons
Thanks to its design, this product is only suitable for use with double-wall metal founts.
It is recommended that you don’t use it with an extension cord.
This can be an issue for people who do not have power in their chicken coops.
It is a great product, but the small capacity means you’ll have to refill it often if you have more chickens.
For a very small coop, this might not be such a big deal, though.
Can be used with double-wall metal water founts only
Users have reported the product shocking them as well as the chickens
The API De-icer is a submersible product that is great for birdbaths, pails, pans, and buckets alike.
With it, you’ll get a handy 6-foot cord as well as a cord chew protector and stainless steel guard.
API Pail and Birdbath De-icer with Guard Features
Like many of the water heaters on this list, this de-icer is a versatile product.
You’re not limited to using it only to warm the water of a chicken flock.
You’ll even be able to heat the water in any birdbaths you may have on your property.
It is a very sturdy product that you can expect to heat your water for many seasons to come without fail.
If you’re looking for a durable water heater for your coop, this is your guy.
This is a really easy-to-use heater.
You can plug it in and forget about it until you need to unplug it for spring.
It’s not a high-maintenance product and a great buy.
API Pail and Birdbath De-icer with Guard Pros
This product has a built-in thermostat that will de-ice your chickens’ water quite nicely.
You won’t have to worry about them not having drinking water.
You also get an adjustable clamp that you can use to attach the product to your water container.
You get a 6-foot cord included
Can de-ice up to 15 gallons
Heavy-duty heater
API Pail and Birdbath De-icer with Guard Cons
Users have complained that the product is not as effective as it promises to be and that the cord splits.
Pricey
Several bad reviews
Chicken Water Heater Buyer’s Guide
It is imperative that you know exactly what you’re getting into when buying a chicken water heater, so you’ll end up with the best product and not be left disappointed with something that doesn’t do what you expected and hoped for.
Of course, everyone’s needs are not the same, and what you’ll end up buying depends on just what it is you want the chicken water heater to accomplish, and in what environment you expect it to do so.
Here we’ll look at a basic list of things that most chicken breeders will need to look at before investing their money in a product.
Easy to fill Chicken Water Heater
This is likely one of the biggest things for people who use water heaters for their chickens.
It may seem like a simple thing, but if a product gets it wrong, it will mess things up royally.
You’ll want to keep the chickens’ water fresh, so filling should be easy and hassle-free.
Easy to clean Chicken Water Heater
Another important factor that, if not easy, can screw things up.
It can even move people not to buy a product if they can’t find out if it is easy to clean or a complete pain in the behind.
Keeping your chickens’ water clean is important for their health.
What is a Chicken Water Heater Made From
What kind of material is the chicken water heater made from?
It’s important to know so you’ll know what to expect.
Metals will be corroded by apple cider vinegar, which many chicken feeders add to their flock’s water to reduce their pH levels, combat ingested bacteria, and many other health benefits.
Plastic is, in general, considered the best material.
Chicken Water Heater Waste
You’ll want minimum waste when it comes to your chicken water heater – this will make or break a product in many cases.
Chicken Water Heater Thermostat controls
Some chicken water heaters come with thermostats that kick in as soon as the temperatures drop below a certain level.
Make sure that the product with this feature is trusted because if it malfunctions, it won’t thaw your chickens’ water, and chickens will dehydrate.
Chicken Water Heater Electric cord
You will generally get an electrical cord included with your product but don’t expect it to be very long.
There are exceptions, but in most cases, you will not get a cord that is longer than 4 feet.
Maintenance for your Water Heater
This is yet another significant factor to keep in mind when you go out to buy a water heater (or buy one online).
If you are not prepared to keep maintenance at the top of your list of chores, you might want to consider not buying a water heater.
That will mean you’ll have to get rid of ice manually, so this really shouldn’t even be an issue.
A waterer of any kind that isn’t maintained well will cause problems.
The water will be stagnant, meaning gross slimy residue will form, and all sorts of bacteria and algae will start growing.
This will result in your chickens refusing to drink the water (good on them).
So before you buy a water heater, be sure to check how often you’ll need to change the water with the product and how easy or difficult that will be to do.
That is usually easy to guess just by looking at the design of the product.
Below is a short video that will help you keep or maintain your chicken water heaters going during the winter:
Are chicken water heaters heavy on electricity usage?
If you’re using an old model, then yes, it will use silly amounts of electricity.
However, modern products are made to be energy-efficient, so it shouldn’t be a problem when you buy a new water heater.
Why use a water heater for chickens?
If chickens go without water for too long, they will get sick, as is the possibility with any animal.
Dehydration is never a good thing.
When temperatures plummet, water starts to freeze.
Chickens aren’t completely stupid (some breeders will argue they’re not stupid at all!), and if their water has a layer of ice, they will peck through it.
However, when it gets colder, they won’t be able to peck the thicker layers, and they’ll have no water to drink.
With the heater, this problem is solved as it will keep the water flowing all through winter.
Will I still have to break the ice in my coop?
With a properly functioning water heater, you won’t have to head back and forth to keep checking that the chickens’ water isn’t iced.
That’s the point of using one.
That’s also why you should make sure you buy a good product.
If your heater isn’t working, you’ll have wasted money and will still need to break the ice manually.
How much water do chickens need generally?
Chickens may look like they don’t require a lot of water because they’ll take a sip and move on, but most of them need up to a liter of water every day to maintain stable health.
Depending on how many chickens you have in your coop, you’ll have to provide liters of freshwater for your chickens.
Where should I place the water feeder?
You will have to keep the water supply close to the chickens, so it is within easy reach for them.
They like to take small sips, move away, and peck at the ground and return for another sip.
Whether you place them on the ground or suspend them depends on the design of the water feeder.
Keep in mind that a chick won’t reach a raised feeder.
Best Chicken Water Heater Review
Now you know what you need to look for when buying the best chicken water heater.
You’ve also been informed of some of the products that are available and what makes them great.
Our pick for the best chicken water feeder has to be the Harris Farms Heated Poultry Drinker Base.
It is trusted by chicken breeders and isn’t quite as expensive as many other products that won’t even be as effective.
If you can solve that problem, and won’t mind spending a few bucks more than average, this could be the water heater for you.
It is straightforward to use; you won’t be wasting any water with it during use or filling; there is no way for the chickens to try and roost on it, and thanks to its removable screen, it’s easy to keep the chickens’ water nice and clean.
The best chicken water heater for you really depends on the unique needs of you and your chickens.
Once you’ve determined what exactly you need and what it is that your flock needs, you’ll be able to find the perfect product.
Just be sure to keep in mind all of the things mentioned in the buyer’s guide, so you won’t miss something and end up wanting to kick yourself.
For the most part, picking a water heater for your chicken coop isn’t rocket science.
Remember to look for a product that has a maintenance level that you’re comfortable with.
Most heaters are pretty simple when it comes to maintenance.
Then take into consideration how big your water feeder is if you’re not buying a feeder with a built-in heater.
Also remember that cleaning can be a hassle for all of us, so check out how the product is cleaned and how often it will need to be cleaned.
In the end, choose whatever will work for you and your chickens or other animals you’ll want to give running water.
Incubation for Beginners – Hatching your own chickens can be an educational and rewarding experience and with the right equipment and some best practices you can be on your way to having backyard chickens in no time.
Incubation allows backyard poultry enthusiasts to hatch chickens and ensure the eggs are developing correctly in a controlled environment.
Incubators are able to control the temperature, humidity and turn the eggs automatically making the egg hatching process stress-free.
While you can incubate eggs any time of the year, spring is considered the best time to raise chickens because of the warmer weather which is ideal for new chicks.
If you’re considering hatching your own flock of backyard chickens, here are a few tips that will make egg hatching success.
To find a quality incubator, we recommend looking at the functionality.
Does it have an accurate temperature control?
Can it be cleaned easily?
Can turning the eggs be done automatically?
You’ll also want to look at the sizing.
For example, how many eggs, and what type of eggs does a specific incubator hold?
Especially as a beginner, these are important qualities to look for in an incubator to ensure yourself the best possible chance at successful hatching.
Also, read the reviews, and don’t be afraid to ask questions, either to the manufacturer directly or in online social spaces.
Getting the Eggs
Once you’ve decided on the right incubator for your situation, you’ll need to find fertilized eggs.
If you already have hens and a rooster then you are good to go.
If you don’t have a rooster, then it’s always best to source your fertilized eggs locally because they will be fresher and their chances of hatching won’t be affected by shipping.
Setting Up Your Incubator
Before setting the eggs in the incubator, read through the incubator’s manual to ensure everything is working properly.
An important step to note is to make sure the eggs are at room temperature before setting them.
Once eggs have reached room temperature, place them in the incubator on their side or pointed end down and do not adjust the temperature for 24 hours.
Importance of Temperature and Humidity
In order for the fertilized eggs to develop correctly, they need to be kept at the correct temperature and turned often and positioned in the right way.
Humidity is also crucial because eggs breathe and lose water through the pores of the shell.
Small changes in temperatures can cause eggs to develop too fast or too slow which could result in deaths or deformities.
The correct temperature for most species when incubating is 99.5°F when using a forced draft incubator.
However, there are incubators without fans and if you are using one, the temperature should be set at 103°F because hot air rises.
No matter the incubator, room temperature should always be between 68°F and 78°F and kept out of direct sunlight to get the best results.
Incorrect humidity is one of the main causes for poor hatching success because it is the most difficult to measure and control accurately.
Humidity is important only to achieve the right balance between excessive dehydration and space within the egg to allow the chick to maneuver into hatching position.
Humidity is affected by evaporation from the eggs themselves and the incubator water reservoirs.
All incubators have water reservoirs and ventilation holes, some have digital humidity displays and ventilation controls.
Humidity levels are measured in % Relative Humidity (% RH).
Ideal humidity during incubation is 40-50% RH for poultry and game birds and 45-55% for waterfowl.
If the humidity is too high, you will need to increase the ventilation or if the incubator does not have a ventilation control, remove water.
Conversely, if humidity is too low, you will need to reduce ventilation and add water.
Humidity at hatching time needs to be higher than during incubation, at least 60% RH to prevent the membranes of the egg drying too fast as the chick hatches and becoming tough and difficult to tear.
Turn, Turn, Turn Eggs
Positioning and turning the eggs is important for egg development because as the embryo develops on the yolk, it causes the yolk to become lighter and float upwards.
When the egg is turned, the embryo moves downwards into fresh nutrients in white of the egg allowing the embryo to develop.
Note that most modern incubators turn the eggs automatically.
Using an incubator with this automatic feature is the best way to ensure the eggs are turned consistently and accurately.
However, if you are turning eggs manually, mark each egg with and X on one side and O on the other with a pencil.
This helps with remembering what side they need to be turned to.
This should be done a minimum of twice a day, to prevent the embryo sticking to the sides of the shell.
Turning should be stopped two days prior to when the chicks are scheduled to hatch.
Certain models with the automatic turning setting will also stop turning the eggs two days before they are due.
Incubation Period
An incubation period varies between birds but for chickens, it takes 21 days.
To check on the state of the embryo, the candling method is used.
In the past, people would use candles to shine on the eggs to see how the development process was going.
Now we are able to use LED lights which don’t emit heat.
Eggs can be candled after 5 days of incubation and every few days after that. For best results, light the eggs in a dark room. Initially, you will be able to see a small embryo and a web of blood vessels radiating from it.
As the chick grows it will be hard to make out detail but you should be able to see movement.
However, if the egg is infertile it will remain clear and eggs that have died will show a dark ring.
Time to Hatch
Two days before the eggs are due to hatch, you should stop turning and make sure the water reservoirs are filled.
Humidity will need to be higher than normal so it’s important not to open the incubator.
It will take about 24 hours or more from the first bump on the shell until the chicks fully hatch.
After the chicks have hatched and are fully fluffed, transfer them to a brooder where they can stay warm.
This experience is very exciting so enjoy watching how your eggs develop and have fun.
For more information on incubators and chicken hatching, visit www.brinsea.com.
A maintenance diet is necessary for non-laying hens and roosters.
This chicken feed still has the nutrients and vitamins that laying feed does, without the added calcium.
The maintenance diet can be accompanied by chicken scratch.
Scratch is composed of various grains, one of which is typically cracked corn.
And it’s very high in calories.
Scratch should be used infrequently and in small amounts.
Feeding Chicken Snacks
The occasional treat for your chickens is fine.
And they’ll love you for it.
Just make sure not to allow them to indulge too often.
Keep the snacks down to every couple days.
Chicken Treats
Pumpkin rinds
Mealworms
Oatmeal balls
Leftovers from dinner
And, since chickens don’t have teeth, remember to provide grit to help them digest these snacks.
Grit is made from sand or small pieces of stone.
Steer Clear of These Foods When Feeding Chickens
There are some foods that are toxic to your chickens and should be avoided at all cost.
Avocado seeds and skin
Dried beans
Unripe tomatoes
Green-tinted potatoes
Cocoa
Any food with mold on it
Chickens Will Eat Anything
Remember, even though chickens can be cute and lovable, they’re not the brightest of the bunch.
They’ll eat just about anything.
So, be mindful of what’s in their exercise area.
Especially watch for small plastic toys, nails, coins or bits of wire.
Joint Feeding Times
When you have a situation where you’ve many different age groups, don’t despair.
These circumstances aren’t optimal, but they’re also quite common.
In this situation, it’s best to provide an un-medicated grower/starter diet, along with available calcium such as crushed oyster shells or eggshells.
Don’t forget to put the calcium supplement in a separate bowl to allow the hens to determine the amount they need.
This is the best solution because the extra protein won’t harm the older chickens.
But the excessive calcium in layer feed can harm the developing kidneys of younger birds.
Open Versus Restricted Feeding
Chickens are generally grazers and only eat when they know they need to.
For this reason, a free or open feeding schedule is best.
This gives your chickens the freedom to meet their own hunger needs and at their leisure.
Food Crisis
In the event of a food crisis on your farm or in your wallet, where you just don’t have access to the nutrient-rich diet mentioned above, do the best you can.
For instance, if you can’t afford or don’t have access to crushed oyster shells, feel free to use crushed eggshells.
While it’s ideal to be able to afford feeder and supplements for your chickens, you can make do with alternatives.
And remember, the most crucial of all diets when feeding chickens is the laying hen’s diet.
Her task is strenuous and exhausting.
She needs all the calcium and protein she can get.
Feeding Chickens at Different Stages
When feeding chickens, you want to make sure you’re tailoring their diet to meet their specific needs.
They’re omnivores and just like us, they need balanced nutrition to keep them strong.
For more tips and information on how to raise your animals to be their healthiest, check out our post on caring for livestock.
This means preventing contraction of diseases, treating them when they occur, and possibly even culling chickens when they’re in danger of spreading dangerous infections.
In this article, we’ll tell you all about the most common chicken diseases, how to spot them, and how to treat them if you find them in your coop.
Fowl Pox
This disease is usually not deadly, but is known to take the lives of young or particularly weak chickens.
It usually lasts 10-14 days in a bird, but can take up to 6 weeks to eradicate from a flock.
Symptoms of Fowl Pox
White spots on the skin, Comb sores, Mouth or trachea ulcers and Laying stops.
It can be contracted from other contaminated chickens, but is also carried by mosquitoes.
Fowl Pox can be treated with Vitamin supplements, particularly Vitamins A, D and E. During treatment, chickens need to eat soft food in order to allow the mouth ulcers to heal.
They also need a warm and dry place to rest.
In order to avoid this disease, it’s best to get your chickens vaccinated.
Botulism
Botulism is one of the most serious chicken diseases there is, as the symptoms progress very quickly and the death rate is very high.
It’s caused by contamination of food or water by rotting meat, and most commonly occurs in summer and fall, when temperatures are warm enough for the bacteria to thrive.
This illness is not passed on from bird to bird, but can affect an entire flock if they all share the same source of food and water.
Symptoms of Botulism
Weakness and nervousness, Tremors or shaking, Feathers are easy to pull out.
Paralysis of the legs, which progresses to the wings and neck before a chicken then suddenly dies.
If the disease is caught early enough, it can be treated with an antitoxin by a vet.
However, a home remedy of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed with 1 oz of warm water given daily with a dropper can also work.
Infectious Bronchitis
Infectious Bronchitis is a common chicken disease in backyard flocks.
This is because most wild flocks develop a resistance to it from increased exposure.
Symptoms of Infectious Bronchitis
Decrease in eating and drinking
Discharge from eyes and nostrils
Coughing, gasping or loud breathing
Decreased egg laying
Misshapen or soft-shelled eggs
Sluggishness
Chickens can be vaccinated against infectious bronchitis.
However, this doesn’t guarantee that they won’t be infected.
Instead, it just decreases the chance of contracting it.
If you notice any symptoms, you’ll need to act quickly.
This viral disease is known to spread quickly and can kill entire flocks if left untreated.
There is no specific treatment for Infectious bronchitis, but some chicken owners report having success with herbal remedies.
Infectious Coryza
This bacterial disease infects the eyes or nose and is highly infectious.
Symptoms of Infectious Coryza
Swollen head or face
Sneezing
Coughing
Discharge from eyes and nostrils
Reluctance to eat or drink
Breathing difficulties
Ceased laying
Staggering
This chicken disease is usually treated with antibiotics.
However, if it has progressed past the point of treatment, infected chickens should be put down to avoid passing the disease on to the rest of the flock.
Unfortunately, there is no vaccine against infectious coryza.
Pullorum
This disease is viral and can, therefore, be contracted through contact with other infected birds as well as contaminated surfaces.
Like Chicken Pox in humans, this illness affects infant and adults differently.
Symptoms of Pullorum
Sneezing, coughing and poor laying in adult birds.
Breathing difficulties, low activity and a white paste on the backsides of chicks.
There is currently no vaccine against Pullorum, so the best way to protect against it is to be aware of the signs and symptoms, then put down any chickens that contract the disease.
Avian Influenza
Avian Influenza is the most commonly-known chicken disease, also known as Bird Flu.
Dominant birds will be intimidating, pecking at submissive ones, stealing their food or chasing them away.
Though it may sound weird, chickens are also touted to be the closest living relative of the Tyrannosaurus rex – arguably the most popular dinosaur thanks to popular culture.
The link lies in the oldest proteins ever found, contained in the remains of an adolescent female T. Rex which lived 68 million years from the past.
As it turns out, the protein’s chemical structure reveals an evolutionary relation between chickens and the dinosaurs that reigned during the Cretaceous Period.
The fossil, a T. Rex’s leg bone, is unearthed in 2003 by Jack Horner of the Museum of the Rockies.
It was found at the Hell Creek Formation, an area that spans Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota and Wyoming.
Chickens have their own “language” too, in the form of about 30 distinct vocalizations used for communication.
But what’s even more interesting is the fact that they are able to communicate even before their birth.
Through a purring sound, the mother hen “talks” to her eggs, and the unborn chicks respond through peeps – short, soft and high-pitched sounds.
It must also be pointed that chickens are not “dumb”.
In fact, mother hens serve as good examples by teaching their chicks not to consume grains which could be bad for them.
In addition, they tend to copy the behavior of other chickens, which could be helpful in some cases.
But perhaps the most fascinating fact about these birds is that they are able to recognize up to 100 faces, so the next time you see one, be sure you are remembered.
Facts about Raising Chickens Mating
Chickens Mating
How do chickens mate?
It all starts with their own version of “courting”, of course.
This is actually simple – the rooster tries to impress the hen through a series of movements that highlight his beauty and strength.
Unfortunately, most hens just walk away, but things can get into a more aggressive turn and result to an engagement activity/position known as “treading”.
The rooster gets into a piggy-back position; he stands on the hen’s back and restrains her neck feathers.
It is vital for him to maintain balance in this event.
The hen lowers herself, spreads her wings to the side and allows him to hop to deliver sperm.
Chickens mate without copulatory organs, though the rooster has a pair of testes, and the hen has a pair of ovaries.
Both sexes instead have an external orifice called cloaca.
As these touch together, the rooster transfers sperm into the hen’s reproductive tract.
This is called the “cloacal kiss”, and after the act, each return to his/her own business.
Sperm lives inside the hen’s oviduct for about a month.
Chickens Laying Eggs
One of the most puzzling questions to mankind – which often comes as a joke – asks which among the chicken and the egg came first.
Surprisingly, this inquiry has been raised since 384 BC, and some of the most well-known people from history have expressed their responses to the circular reference.
Aristotle claimed that both had always existed.
Theoretical physicist Stephen Hawking said it’s the egg that came first.
However, it was discovered in 2010 that eggs cannot be produced without a protein called Ovocleidin-17.
This protein, meanwhile, is produced by chickens, which appears to support the stance that the winged, grown birds are first to exist on earth.
Still, this is emphasized to be inconclusive, leaving the mystery unsolved in millennia.
Hens begin laying eggs about 18 to 21 weeks (nearly 6 months) after their own hatching.
It is important to learn, however, that they are able to produce eggs even without the presence of a rooster.
It takes about a day for one hen to make an egg, and she is able to produce another an hour or less later.
But for a hen to produce fertile, hatchable eggs, a rooster will be necessary.
Roosters reach sexual maturity in about 4 to 5 months of age and can remain fertile for years.
The egg-laying process begins with a small gland located near the hen’s eye.
This gland is photosensitive; light triggers the release of eggs.
A fully-formed egg is pushed through muscular contraction.
It goes out through the same channel as the hen’s waste, but there’s nothing to worry here.
Only one canal access is allowed to the vent every time.
Eggs come in consistent shape as they follow the form of the hen’s uterus.
This might be disturbing, but chickens, sometimes, eat eggs.
This happens mostly when an egg is broken by accident.
For human consumption, eggs should be gathered daily and refrigerated quickly to ensure freshness.
Araucanas, Ameraucanas and Cream Legbars are three breeds of chicken that lay blue eggs.
This hue is caused by a pigment called oocyanin (sometimes called oocyan) which goes through the shell.
This pigment is a by-product of bile production. As a result, the shell will be blue inside and outside.
Interestingly, researchers have found that blue eggs actually happened because of a harmless retrovirus.
It is said to be a 500-year-old mutation that began in South America and China, which explains why some breeds in areas of both regions produce such eggs to date.
This particular virus, called EAV-HP, mixes its own genetic data into the host through a backward process; it uses its RNA to create DNA that is later integrated into the host’s DNA.
Nevertheless, the occurrence of blue eggs must not be treated as a rare occasion or a supernatural event.
Color has little to do with nutrition, as blue eggs contain approximately as much cholesterol as other eggs.
Each contain about 185 milligram of cholesterol, which supplies around 60% of the total amount recommended for healthy adults daily.
It is said that blue eggs will not raise blood cholesterol levels significantly; saturated and trans fats have greater effect on one’s total and “bad” cholesterol.
Chickens Hatchery
In essence, a chicken hatchery is a haven for hatching and incubating eggs.
In general, hatcheries are developed to serve different purposes – from ensuring food supply to maintaining conservation.
For live, young animals, these environments function as “nurseries”, becoming their home until they are ready to be moved to other locations.
Chicken hatcheries are often manned by veterinarians and biologists, supervising workers who do most of the ground work.
Activities include safe and proper handling of eggs, monitoring of incubation and provision of nutrition, water and extra needs to older chickens, among others.
Hatcheries must remain sanitary at all times, to ensure the health of the eggs, birds and humans within.
Starting a chicken hatchery is among the many routes of poultry production.
It can be difficult, but with the right information, hardwork and patience, it can be a good source of income.
Caring for the parent flock is perhaps the earliest consideration to keep in mind, alongside a well-planned financial management system.
Note that chicken hatcheries need not be limited to chickens, as it can also house other types of poultry birds such as turkeys and ducks.
While sanitary principles may be the same, care for these other birds will require different procedures.
As a staple food source, chickens have certainly become part of our lives, providing nourishment to many parts of the world.
Because their life is essentially a cycle, proper care must be consistent, whether it’s for a grown chicken or a hatching egg.
When one finds value in both, whichever came first will no longer matter.
The beauty of these birds, after all, is enough to be thankful for.
Keeping Chickens: Tips for a Healthy Brood
Whether you are keeping chickens for eggs, as pets, or for meat, there are easy things you can do to keep them healthy, clean and safe.
Let’s take a look at 10 tips for keeping chickens safe from predators and healthy all year long.
Keeping Chickens Safe From Predators
Throughout the day, your chickens should be secured within a fenced area with at least a 7-foot high enclosure.
Although not always practical, it’s best if they’re at least semi-monitored whenever they’re out of the Best Chicken Coops.
Before dusk, you should round up your chickens, count them and secure them for the night.
During night hours, your chickens should remain in a durable and completely enclosed coop.
You’ll want more than a single layer of chicken wire to secure your fowl.
Use a 1-inch thick wire mesh around areas that are not solid.
Be especially mindful of raccoons as you enclose your chickens, as they have tiny agile hands that can stretch into narrow spaces.
Keeping Chickens
Housing Your Chickens
Whether you raise your own chickens for their fresh eggs, to make up healthy chicken recipes or as beloved pets, you want them healthy, happy and safe.
You’ll want to make sure you have a sturdy chicken coop that’s easy to clean, sheltered from the elements and secure from predators.
Concrete is ideal for the flooring, as it’s simplest to clean.
Keep Your Chicken Coop Clean and Poop-Free
The frequency of cleaning depends on a few factors such as the number of chickens in the coop and the size of the coop.
To reduce the chances of spreading illness from chicken to chicken, you’ll want to clean the poop from your chicken coop at least three times a week. And spot clean if needed daily.
Use gloves, with a broom, shovel or bucket to clear away chicken feces from the coop as needed.
Make it a point to at least eyeball the coop daily.
And make a plan to deep clean your chicken coop twice a year.
Age-Specific Feed For Your Chicks
You may already know the basics for caring for livestock, but one thing you might not know is that, just like you, your chickens need certain nutrition to stay healthy.
And chickens need different nutrition at different stages of their lives.
Baby chicks especially should have a specialized diet called a start or grower diet until at least 5 months old.
This feed is high in fat and protein for their growth needs.
You should feed your chickens a diet of pellet or crushed feed specifically designed to meet their nutritional requirements.
You should feed them daily and allow them to eat as much as they want.
Laying hens have extremely high demands for protein, calcium, and vitamins because of the energy it takes for this task.
Use a special “laying” diet for your hens.
The beauty behind having laying hens is you don’t have to worry about what the egg cartons mean when they claim to be cage-free, free-range, pasture-raised or organic.
You know exactly where your eggs are coming from.
Feed For Non-Laying Hens and Cocks
While your egg-laying hens need high calcium for their job, cocks and non-laying hens will not benefit from the same diet.
Cocks and non-laying hens need what’s called a maintenance diet.
It’s much lower in calcium than the laying diet.
If you have trouble finding a maintenance feed, you can use some of the laying feed in conjunction with fresh vegetables and fruits and 20-25% scratch of corn or seeds.
Foods You Should Avoid Feeding Your Chickens Completely
The following foods can be harmful and even toxic to your chickens.
Raw or Dried Beans
These contain a toxin that will kill your chicken, and there’s no saving them.
Keep your chickens clear of any bean plants because they’ll nip at anything in sight.
Moldy Foods
This one can be hit or miss, but just don’t test it.
Be sure to clear out any foods from your chicken’s feeding area left over from the previous day.
Avocado
Although parts of the avocado may be okay in moderation, this is one you probably want to avoid altogether.
Just don’t do it.
Green Tomatoes and Green Potatoes
These have toxins that will kill your chickens in even small amounts.
Green potatoes can be harmful to human health, as well.
Citrus
Do not feed your chicks or chickens any citrus fruits, including citrus seeds and peels.
Chocolate
Chocolate contains caffeine and theobromine, both of which aren’t good for your chickens.
Tiny pieces may not have adverse effects, but best to keep your chickens from all chocolate.
This especially goes for dark varieties, as this has the highest content of caffeine and theobromine.
Healthy Wandering Environment
When keeping chickens, you want them to be able to get good exercise and fresh air.
Your chicken coop should be well-ventilated, spacious and insulated for warmth during the cold months.
Allot at least 9 square feet per chicken.
Keep chicken toys available for them, such as handmade tunnels, chicken swings or CDs hanging on strings for them to play with.
Remember, chickens will try to eat just about anything left in their line of sight.
Keep gasoline, oil, screws, fertilizer, bits of wire and pesticides away from your chicken’s play area.
Rooster Per 9 Hens
If you’re wanting to mate your chickens to produce offspring, you really only need one cock for every 9-10 hens.
Roosters do tend to be noisy and territorial, so you probably don’t want to have any more than you have to for the job.
Keeping Chickens Disease-Free
You’ll want to pay close attention to your chicken’s physical appearance and energy levels.
This will help you get a sense of what each chicken’s “baseline” is in terms of wellness and illness.
Watch your chicken’s weight and sift through feathers to check for parasites or feathers falling out.
Notice any sneezing or appetite changes, as well.
Keeping Your Chickens Healthy All Year Long
Whether you’re wanting fresh eggs, tender meat or pet chickens, you’ll want to keep them happy, healthy and safe.
Did you know 1% of urban dwellers own chickens on less than 1 acre of land and another 4% plan to join this poultry trend in the next 5 years?
This may not appear very high at first glance.
But when you consider the crowded environment of the city and the compact feel of side-by-side housing, 5% can seem quite high.
It can be difficult to keep your chickens healthy and happy under these conditions.
But it can be done.
For more tips and information on keeping chickens and other livestock, check us out at Rural Living Today.
Water Your Backyard Chickens – As the proud owner of backyard chickens, you know there are certain responsibilities that go along with the title of “keeper.”
You must attend to your brood’s needs.
You must make sure they have a clean environment with fresh bedding, food and water.
There are systems you can use to make your job easier and keep your hens content.
Having a good watering system is important.
It will save you lots of time and be healthier for your chickens.
Water Your Backyard Chickens watering systems
If you don’t want a DIY project, we love this chicken watering system.
The nipples and water won’t come in contact with the ground, making it clean and sanitary.
It’s a simple and effective system, and holds two gallons of water.
You can leave the bucket on the ground or hang it.
Four chickens and roosters can drink from it at the same time.
And, miracle of miracles, it doesn’t leak!
You can easily fill it with ice cubes on hot days.
Note with the 2 Gallon Waterer — it took our girls almost two days to get the hang of it so be sure to keep your current watering system in place.
They will quickly come to love it but you may need to train them by showing them how it works.
Once they understand, you will be so glad you have this waterer.
Open watering devices that sit on the ground can collect dirt, debris and fecal matter.
Before refilling it, you will always have to rinse it out and then fill it with fresh water.
Many chicken owners like to add just a few drops of apple cider vinegar to their chickens’ water to prevent parasites and help with calcium absorption.
It also helps deter algae growth.
A food grade bucket will be less likely to break down when exposed to vinegar.
Simple “No Frills” DIY Chicken Watering System
This is the easiest and least expensive watering system to build of all the devices here.
You can also improvise freely using many different materials and get the same results.
You will need for DIY Chicken Watering Station:
1 empty #10 can
1 pie pan or sturdy plastic container
Here is how DIY Chicken Watering Station works:
Drill a small hole near the open end of the can.
Fill the can with water.
Place the pie pan on top of the #10 can.
Turn the whole thing over.
The pie pan will fill with water until the water is level with the hole.
DIY Chicken Watering Station
You can also use a plastic bottle.
Place a small hole near the bottom of the plastic bottle.
Glue the plastic bottle to the pie plate.
You can use a sandwich or similar food storage container.
Fill the plastic bottle from the top.
Water will drain from the bottom until the water in the food container covers the hole in the plastic bottle.
A one gallon bucket with or without a lid also works well.
If you use a bottle, keep it out of the sunlight as much as possible as sunlight encourages algae growth.
Also, be aware of the potential of freezing in winter.
2-5 Gallon Bucket
This DIY watering system for chickens uses a two or five gallon bucket.
Because these buckets have handles you can hang this device up by its handle or even set it on a low shelf or some bricks so the watering cups are off the ground.
Drill holes near the bottom of the bucket to accommodate the watering cups.
Secure the cups into the holes.
Fill the bucket with water.
Chickens may need a little training, but they should catch on quickly to using the watering cups.
DIY watering system for chickens
You can also drill holes into the bottom of the bucket and substitute chicken nipples for chicken watering cups.
DIY watering system for chickens Hacks
Make sure to use a dark colored bucket to hinder algae growth.
You should also make sure the bucket is made from good quality/food grade plastic to prevent chemicals from leaching into the water.
If you live in a climate where cold weather is a possibility, check on your watering system regularly to ensure that the cups or nipples have not frozen.
PVC Pipe Watering System
This system will make watering you birds a breeze.
No bending, or moving the device.
You will just be able to put water into the top.
As long as you keep the device closed, the water should stay free of contaminants.
When you keep your chickens occupied and happy, they are less likely to peck at one another.
Chicken swings introduce activity, exercise and recreation for your brood.
We like to think of it as hen-tertainment.
Best Chicken Swings
When we bought these swings, our kids thought these were the best things ever.
They were as excited as if the swings were for them! Our family and neighbors have enjoyed watching our chickens swing and play.
The Chicken Swing – Fowl Play Products
This is the first chicken swing we installed, and it remains everyone’s (people and chicken’s) favorite.
It’s sturdy and well-built, bright and colorful.
The Chicken Swing is made from plastic and rope, and holds up well in all types of climates.
It was easy to mount.
It’s adjustable for any coop size.
Like with all these swings, you will want to be sure there’s enough space for it to swing freely so it’s safe.
We first installed this swing when we had chicks.
This is key.
You will have much more success with chickens using this when they are adults if they start when they are young.
We made sure it was very low, about an inch off the ground.
The chicks were able to get used to it while they were young, energetic and curious.
As they grew, we raised the swing to 3 – 4″ off the ground.
They still enjoy it to this day.
A concern for all chicken swings is the risk of injury during a vigorous dismount.
The Chicken Swing comes with a fully adjustable cross-member which keeps the swing from twisting when the chickens dismount.
Depending on the area in which you hang it, when the hens have gotten used to it, you may want to put it high enough off the ground so the other chickens can be near it and under it safely, even when it’s swinging.
Best chicken toys Chicken Swings
Two solid poly-pro ropes support the swing.
The perch is shaped like a small mailbox, with a corn-like surface the chickens can grip.
Pros of The Chicken Swing
UV and weather-resistant rope
Easy-to-install rope buckle makes it easy to adjust the height.
Safety side ties
Easy for chicks and chickens to grip and stay on.
Chickens can use it as a perch and a swing.
The perch tongues allow the swing to have more torque, so the chickens can swing easily.
It’s plastic — not wood — so it won’t warp.
It’s easy to clean.
Cons of The Chicken Swing (and all chicken swings)
Some chickens might be afraid of the swing so you may have to train them yourself
You may have better success with your chickens using the swing when you set it up when they are chicks or pullets.
Healthy Chicken Swing Perch
This is a simply chicken swing. It is very easy to install.
Like all chicken swings, its purpose is to keep chickens happy, active and entertained.
