Wooden fencing is the most traditional fencing material of them all, having been used for this purpose for centuries.
For that reason, you may think this is ideal if you want a traditional or rustic look around your homestead, but it’s also important to think about how it will look after it’s been in position for a number of years.
Fences have to take whatever our unpredictable weather systems throw at them, and wooden fences, in particular, can soon show the signs of weathering.
They will need regular maintenance if you want to keep them in great shape, and that can mean treating them with preservatives on an annual basis, or even more frequently.
This can be a huge job if you have a lot of fencing in place, but failure to do so can see the fence lose its color or become prone to rot and algae.
It’s strong and reliable, and its austere appearance alone can be enough to deter any felons who may be thinking of trespassing onto your land.
This positive can also prove to be a negative in another way, however, as there is no denying that metal fences don’t have the aesthetic appeal that some other materials can bring, and depending upon the type and strength of metal used, they could also be liable to rust over time, which can look unsightly.
More and more people are installing vinyl fencing from specialist manufacturers like Northland Fence, and it’s easy to see why.
Vinyl is a very versatile substrate so that fences made from it can be purchased in a variety of styles and colors.
Even more importantly, it offers superb value for money, as not only is purchase and installing inexpensive, but it also needs very little maintenance when compared to wooden fencing.
Vinyl won’t rot with rain or fade with the sun, and that means you won’t need to do anything to it other than wash it occasionally to keep it looking at its very best.
Vinyl is also very tough, and you won’t have to worry about warping, insect or algae attack.
Wooden fences have a quaint appeal and metal fences can look daunting, but for most homesteads vinyl makes a very smart choice.
Realistic Off Grid Power Sources – With the rising prices in electricity, and the growing concerns of the environmental impact of power plants to the planet, more and more people are saying that they want to go “off the grid” and produce their own power.
This kind of option is a dream for most people but sadly often times, that’s what it is- a dream.
They want to do it, but they don’t know where to start, or even what their options are.
Also, people think that going off the grid means having to leave the convenience of living in a town or city, which most people don’t want to do.
The good news is that with new research and technology, there are a lot of renewable energy options that are available that can fit any type of property that you currently live in.
The cost of installing solar shingles on your roof would be between $20,000 – $50,000 for a 2500 square foot home (232 square meters) depending on how you want it installed in your house, as well as state and federal tax incentives if you live in the USA.
Make sure to check with your country’s government for any incentives that can be available to you.
Yes, it’s a hefty price to start, but, think that solar shingles can cut your monthly electric bill from 40 to 60 percent or even to zero if you go full solar.
And considering that a system like this can last for 30 or more years, it will definitely pay for itself in a few years’ time.
Residential Wind Turbine
The wind is another renewable, and sustainable energy that can be tapped for off the grid electrical systems thru the use of a wind turbine.
Like solar panels, wind turbines have been significantly reduced its size so that it can be installed in residential houses.
And if you like in an area that is windy, and you have at least in an acre of land, then a residential wind turbine can be an option if you want to go off the grid.
If you want to talk about cost, a typical 10Kw wind turbine will cost between $50,000 to $60,000.
It is a considerable amount of money to fork out, but if you think that you’ll be saving up to 90% or even 100% of the electricity bill every month.
The whole system will have an ROI in about 6 years.
And, because it’s renewable energy, countries like USA, China, Korea, Belgium, Ireland, Spain etc, offer varying tax incentives ranging from 12 to 30 percent depending on where you live.
So, if you’re thinking of installing a wind turbine for your home, make sure that you check first with your local government to what incentive they are offering.
Geothermal Heat Pump
Geothermal energy is a clean, and sustainable heat energy that comes from below the earth’s surface which can supply energy 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
Now, your home can harness the power of geothermal energy thru a geothermal heat pump.
If you’re wondering what a geothermal heat pump is.
It’s a central heating and cooling system.
It uses the ground as a heat source when it’s cold in the winter.
In the summer, it uses the earth as a heat sink.
It can be easily integrated into your existing HVAC system, or it can be installed in a new build project.
It works pretty much like your fridge where it transfers the heat coming from the earth into your house or the other around thru loops of pipes that are filled with liquid in the form of water or an antifreeze solution.
These pipes are then attached to a geothermal heat pump in your house which acts like a heater or an air conditioner depending on the weather.
If you are lucky enough to live in a property that has a source of running water like a brook or a stream, then you might want to look at micro-hydro electricity to power your home.
Like its name, hydroelectricity uses running water to generate electricity usually from energy coming from water flowing from higher to lower places.
A micro hydropower system works by converting the flow of running water into rotational energy that is in turn transformed into electricity using either a pump, a turbine or a waterwheel.
Compared to solar, wind, and geothermal energy, micro hydroelectricity is relatively cheaper and easier to build.
However, the downside is that it requires a very specific on-site condition.
This means that if you don’t have a river, stream or some form of running water in your backyard, then you pretty much can’t have this system.
Solar/Wind Hybrid System
If you want to live one hundred percent off the grid, you might want to have a system that can handle the fluctuations of weather in your area to make sure that electricity is generated all the time because we all know that the weather can be fickle.
The solution to this problem is a solar/hybrid system.
This kind of system is more dependable than using just one power source because your power grid is not dependent on one source.
In addition to this, it’s also cheaper because it uses smaller components for each source compared to what would be needed than if you only used either solar or wind power.
If you are curious about the cost, a base hybrid system that can generate 7.5 kWh per day starts at around $35,000 and can go up to $65,000 for a system generates 15.5 kWh per day.
With new advances in solar, wind, geothermal, and water energy, going off the grid is now not limited to moving out of the urban setting.
Now, because the systems are smaller, you can install an off the grid system no matter where your home is located- whether it be in an urban or rural area, or even in a remote area.
And yes, admittedly, the upfront costs are expensive, but it is expected that, as technology progresses in this area, these kinds of systems will become more and more affordable in the near future.
Around 50km or a 45-minute drive from the great city of Toronto, Lake Simcoe is a place to be when you think about water-related activities.
Known for its beautiful shores, clear water, and abundant fish, this lake needs to be on your must-see and visit list.
The lake covers about 52km of shoreline, perfect for swimming, boat riding, watersports, and fishing.
It is the perfect spot for anglers, from Canada even in the United States, due to its close proximity to nearby main cities and richness in variety of fish.
Only a handful of lakes in Canada have the same amount of abundance of fish species so remember to bring your trusty fishing gear if you want to encounter some trout, whitefish, smallmouth and largemouth bass, bowfin, northern pike and many more.
If you think experiencing a winter wonderland is all about visiting malls with white winter decorations or visiting a skating ring in downtown, then you need to know about Banff.
Banff National Park is the oldest national park in Canada, located in the province of Alberta.
It offers the most surreal winter wonderland experience anyone can wish for.
Its known for its icy landscape, breathtaking lakes, picturesque pine forest.
This national park has the best of the best the winter season can provide.
You can chill in the backcountry lodges and indulge yourself with some magnificent snowy mountain views or experience adrenaline in the chilling weather by playing activities such as hockey, skiing, ice skating or even dogsledding.
Remember to book your accommodation early because this park is considered one of the most visited national parks in North America with around three million visitors every year.
It should be no surprise that the Niagara Falls fall into this list.
With its majestic height, powerful might and beautifully epic plunge, failing to miss this spot is like failing to see Canada at all.
Niagara Falls is actually composed of three falls and divides the border between Canada and USA.
One of the falls and its biggest and most renowned is called Horseshoes Falls, also known as Canadian falls.
Majority of this fall is located in the Canadian border.
Seeing, living and breathing from a distance to appreciate this God-given nature may be enough but you can actually explore it a little bit more intimately by hopping in on a boat tour that will take you underneath its plunging waters.
In addition to that thrilling experience, there are many nearby child-friendly activities around and some impressive light show at night.
Victoria and Vancouver Island
You will probably be tired by the time you are done with Lake Simcoe, Banff and Niagara Falls.
Now it’s time for you to chill, relax and get your piece of mind.
Thankfully, there is a place in Canada called the Garden City, the city of Victoria in Vancouver Island.
Around 76 miles in the southwest of the bustling city of Vancouver, Victoria and Vancouver island is a getaway from all the noise, hustle and stress of modern life.
Going to the island leaves you with a number of good options, you can take a 4-hour trip by car or bus and ferry; or a 35-minute flight.
This place is filled with colonial architecture, glorious heritage buildings, mesmerizing gardens, and scenic harbor.
The streets in this city are teeming with street vendors, cafes, and restaurants.
Perfect for a relaxing but interesting walk.
The best way to get around and do sightseeing on the island is by bicycle.
The city of Victoria prides itself with plenty of cycle routes that any city in the country.
Canada is a charming country no matter the season.
They have great population diversity, friendly and warm people, amazing nature and exhilarating outdoor activities.
We have been spoiled! With all the advances in technology, the thought of giving that up is unheard of.
However, the fact that living off the grid is becoming more and more popular, it has to at least spark your interest a little bit.
It has to at least make you wonder why people choose that lifestyle.
Is it financially smart, or do they just love nature THAT much?
Well, living off the grid is not as easy as it may seem.
You can’t just leave your home and pitch a tent in the middle of nowhere.
It takes lots of planning.
If you’re one who is seriously considering off-the-grid living, then there are some basic essentials you will need to survive.
In the minds of most people, going off the grid means sleeping under the stars.
Some people really do sleep out in the open, but you have to be a little realistic here.
You need to have some type of shelter to protect you from the elements of nature.
You can opt for a small log cabin, RV (RVshare), or even a yurt.
Now keep in mind, it’s not going to be like a real home with all the luxuries you’ve grown accustomed to.
The key to finding shelter for this lifestyle is small.
If your shelter is small, it’s easier and less time consuming to heat up.
You also want to check to see if there are any laws or regulations you may have to follow that could potentially prevent you from making this change in living arrangements.
Off-Grid Food Source
How to get your source of food might be the hardest part of off-the-grid living.
You can’t just run up the road to your local Kroger or Publix.
No, you have to work for your food with this lifestyle.
Nowadays, you can’t really survive off the land just by eating berries, plants, nuts, and wild game.
You run too high of a risk eating something poisonous.
It’s also jut not that plentiful as it was in past generations.
A safe way to self-provide your sources of food is to grow your own garden, and invest in livestock.
Growing your own fruits and vegetables minimizes the poison concern.
Learn to compost to add richness to your garden.
The goal with livestock is to produce your own milk and cheese from them, and then breed them to produce sources of meat.
Failure to dispose of bodily wastes can be very toxic to not only yourself but also to the environment.
It can cause several diseases such as intestinal worms and cholera.
Outdoor toilets are popular among those “roughing it,” but living off the grid is also about utilizing every resource you have, so people also will take their bodily wastes and compost it with a composting toilet.
From there, you can take that compost and use it to fertilize your garden.
But be sure to do your research on how to properly compost human wastes.
The whole process sounds somewhat gross and complicated, but just know when it comes to removing waste, nothing goes to waste!
Having clean drinking water is essential to living off the grid.
Before you decide where you want to live, you need to make sure that a reliable water source is nearby.
Yes, being out in nature, you would think that there would be several sources of water via lakes, ponds, rivers, and even rain, but even those sources can be full of bacteria and can make you very sick.
Those living off the grid will dig water wells or harvest rainwater.
Transportation Living Off-Grid
Just like everything else with living off the grid, the way you get around will be very minimalist and simple.
Depending on where you live, you may consider in boats, canoes, tractors, and horses.
The most common mode of transportation is by foot.
Walking to get to a location definitely takes time and energy, but it certainly is free.
Another mode to get you where you need to go is bicycling.
Cycling is definitely a lot more convenient than walking, and it gets you to your destination in a quicker time frame.
For those times where you have to get back to civilization, cycling typically isn’t a common form of transportation used in cities, so you want to be especially careful when cycling in town.
Accidents happen all the time, so for those occasions that you do have to go into town for something, you want to, of course, be careful, but you also want someone who will help in case an emergency does occur.
The important thing with off-grid traveling is safety.
Bicycles have none of the fancy safety features that newer model cars do, so just mindful.
Essential DIY Skills for Homesteading has always been a very hard knock life.
It was hard for our ancestors who first settled on the frontier in the days of the American Colonies, and it’s just as hard for those who choose to live in some the most remote locations that the United States has.
Sure – we enjoy far more advanced technology than our forefathers and mothers had, but for the homesteader, there are certain aspects of life that no fancy computer, or piece of machinery can solve.
Technology can’t stop water lines from freezing in below zero temperatures, or coyotes from trying to get in the coop, or a drought that leaves crops withering and dying on the vine.
No matter how you look at it, there’s a multitude of challenges that farmers and homesteaders alike have to deal with in order to pursue this way of life.
So when it comes to keeping the house running smoothly, you can’t afford to leave all of your repair work to someone else.
Besides the high costs associated with hiring carpenters, electricians, and plumbers to make repairs, there’s the delays because of scheduling, and a lack of qualified technicians available.
You can get away with having an electrical outlet or two that won’t put out a current, but having a faucet leaking so bad that it floods the kitchen?
That just can’t wait.
If you’re a homesteader, or you’re considering pursuing this very noble, but very hard, way of life, you need to be able to do the bulk of your own repair work, and below are the most critical DIY skills you need to keep your homestead running smoothly.
Fix a Leaky or Clogged Faucet
One of the most commonly associated problems with any house, whether it’s a farmhouse in the Big Sky country, or in the heart of Brooklyn, is the faucet.
They freeze up, won’t put out enough water pressure to clean hardly anything, and sooner or later, develop a leak.
A slow trickle of water that runs into the sink won’t do any harm, but a faucet that’s shooting out a geyser, or flooding the cabinets and floors of your home, will quickly wreck your home.
Fortunately, these are usually the most simple repair jobs, and require the fewest tools:
DIY Homestead Plumbing Tools You’ll Need:
Clog Remover (I’d recommend Draino or Liquid Plumber)
Latex or Dish Washing Gloves
How to Fix It:
Start by shutting off the main water valve to your home, both to stop the leak, and to keep water from spraying everywhere while you make your repairs.
Check the water hose connecting to your faucet. Ensure that it is seated in the grooves, and is twisted down tightly. If not, tighten with your hands or your adjustable wrench.
If the line connector is already firm, check for rust, cracks, or breaks. If this is bad enough, you’ll need to replace the house. If it isn’t too advanced, remove with your adjustable wrench, and use WD-40 if it’s difficult to remove. Clean off any excess rust and reconnect the hose.
If you’ve noticed that water has been slow to drain, or pooling in the sink, begin by pouring approximately half the bottle of your clog remover down your drain. Wait a half hour, then flush with hot water.
If that doesn’t fix the problem, put on your latex gloves, and place towels below the PVC piping to catch excess water and filth.
Remove the PVC piping connecting to your drain using your adjustable wrench, lighting tapping with a hammer if you need to to loosen the connector.
Using your pipe brush and fingers, remove as much gunk, filth, and stoppage as you can.
Repeat Step 4, and ensure the water is draining normally.
Repair a Strand of Barbed Wire
If you’re a homesteader, odds are you keep livestock of some form.
Even if you don’t, homesteaders are often easy prey for rodents and critters that target your garbage and crops for an easy meal.
It’s essential that you keep some sort of fencing up in order to help keep these varmints at bay, and your own herd contained.
Sooner or later, you’re going to have a wire break, either because a cow or horse panicked and ran through it, or because its rusted from rain and snow, and finally snapped.
When this happens, you’ve got to detect the break quickly, and fix it.
Fence Repair Tools You’ll Need
Thick Leather Gloves or Wiring Handling Gloves
Eye Protection Goggles
Strand of Barbed Wire
Heavy Duty Pliers with Cutter
How to Fix Fencing
If yours is an electrified fence, begin by shutting of the breaker running a current through your fence.
Wearing your gloves and goggles, begin by removing any barbs about six to eight inches past both sides of the break.
Measure out enough wire to extend about half a foot past both sides of the break when pulled taut.
While keeping the wire taut, use fencing sleeves to crimp the replacement strand to the broken strand. Crimp the sleeve down, leaving about one inch of loose strand on each end.
If the entire strand needs replacing, find the fencing staple connecting the broken strand to the fence post. Cut the strand with your pliers, leaving about three to four inches. Staple the excess back into the fence post using your hammer and fencing staples.
Measure out enough new strand that you’ll be able to wrap about halfway around the fence post when pulled taut.
Cut the new strand with your pliers, then connect to the fence post using two fencing staples on each post.
In either type of break, check the tension when you’re finished. The new strand should move no more than about half an inch under steady pressure. Check your other strands while you’re at it.
Turn your breaker back on. Test the current by either using a multimeter, or taking a blade of long grass with your bare hands, and touching the tip to the new strand. You’ll receive a slight shock, that won’t harm you, if the current is live.
Install a New Fence
Whether you opt to use barbed wire or plain old wood, I’ve already emphasized that you need fencing of some kind in order to protect your home, and corral your livestock. Best Fencing
A self made fence is a time honored tradition amongst homesteaders, and it’s one of the most basic tasks that you should be able to perform.
Before you do anything else, measure out the area where you’re going to install your fence. The distance between fence posts can vary, but I’d recommend that you go no more than 15 to 20 ft. in between posts. You also need to how high you want your fence to be, and the gap you want to leave in between each board. Common livestock fences are usually between five and seven feet high, but if you keep horses, it may need to be higher.
Using your measuring tape, measure out the distance between your fence posts. Mark the position using a rock, flag, or whatever you choose.
Wearing your gloves, and using your post hole digger, dig a rounded or squared hole. Dig at least a foot deep, and keep your dirt in a consolidated pile.
Insert your post hole. Have your assistant hold the pole upright and rigid. Using your leave, ensure the post is straight up and down, and level. Ensure the post reaches the desired height. If not, pull out and replace some dirt, or dig deeper.
Pack the excess dirt in around the base of the post using your shovel.
Repeat Steps 2 through 5 for a second post.
Use your measuring tape to the position of the first plank between the posts. Mark the position with your ink or paint pen. The plank should extend halfway across the post.
Have your assistant hold the plan in position, and hammer in the top corner of your plank on either post.
Using your level, ensure the plank remains horizontal and flush with the post.
Hammer in the remaining corner.
Use your measuring tape to gauge the gap between planks.
Repeat Steps 6 through 11 until your fence is complete.
In our Troop we prefer the Heavy Duty Silver Grizzly Tarps.
Heavy duty tarps made with attention to detail quality
We’ve used Grizzly Tarps to make a shelter for a group of boys who’s tent got damage during transportation, create an adult cooking canopy, cover equipment and cover equipment on a trailer during a 700 mile camping and backpacking trip.
I recently used one of the Troop’s Grizzly Tent to cover my tent during a cold Arizona Mountain campout.
This picture was taken at about 5,000 ft where the night time temperature dipped below freezing every night.
Grizzly Tarps – Best Heavy Duty Tarps
I’ll usually pack a tarp of two when I’m venturing into the wilderness.
Our Boy Scout Troop takes 3 to 4 Heavy Duty Grizzly Tarps.
They are that useful and versatile.
A Tarp Is Just a Tarp, Right?
I know what you’re thinking. “I’ve got a tarp. It’s nothing to write home about.”
That might be because you haven’t tried Grizzly Tarps.
I was once like you.
I’d head to the hardware store, or Harbor Freight, to get a tarp.
Usually, I’d just buy the cheapest one in the size that seemed appropriate.
I’d take it camping or use it for one of the other purposes that you might need a tarp for, but the result was always the same.
The first good gust of wind would rip it, and it never quite seemed to be up to the task at hand.
Before I knew it, I was back at the hardware store getting another tarp.
Grizzly Tarps outlast the others
Not anymore. Our Grizzly Tarps have outlasted — by far — any other tarp we have ever had. Even more, they are still in brand new shape.
These Grizzly heavy duty tarps still look brand new; they look hardly used.
Both our family and Boy Scout Troop use the heavy duty Silver Grizzly Tarps exclusively.
The upshot is that those inexpensive tarps weren’t really inexpensive.
Nothing that you have to repeatedly buy is affordable, especially when that something is an item that you should be durable.
I expect to buy groceries every week. Food is perishable, and it also gets consumed.
NO MORE CHEAP TARPS!
Tarps should be built to last.
Grizzly Tarps are Different
Getting acquainted with a Grizzly was a revelation for me.
At first, the price took me by surprise, but when I started to study the product, I realized that this was no ordinary tarp.
Heavy duty tarp
No, this was a genuine, heavy duty tarp.
Piping on borders
One of the first things that I noticed was the piping on the borders.
It was immediately clear to me that this was a tarp I could use even in high-wind situations.
It hardly matters how tight I strap it down or what kind of stress I put on it. The Grizzly wasn’t going to tear.
Another feature that I find is invaluable is the grommets.
They are placed at 34-inch intervals.
This means that no matter how I’m using this tarp, it can be securely tied down.
No more flapping in the breeze when the tarp is covering a load in the back of my truck.
The weave on my first Grizzly tarp also set it apart from the competition.
It was an eight by eight weave, impressively tight and designed for competitive durability.
The laminated polyethylene material was built to last, and that was something that I tested repeatedly.
The manufacturer highlighted many features: waterproof, mildew-proof and washable.
Once again, I found that my expectations were exceeded.
This heavy duty tarp was just what I needed to take my outdoor adventures to the next level.
Then, I Discovered Silver Grizzly Tarps
The first Grizzly Tarp I encountered was a standard blue-color tarp.
Of course, I could see that the color was the only respect in which the Grizzly resembled other tarps.
Then, I discovered that Grizzly makes a tarp that’s meant for even more stressful applications.
These silver tarps are remarkable, and once I discovered them, there was no going back.
Highly Recommend the Silver Heavy Duty Grizzly Tarp
Grizzly constructs these tarps out of an incredibly tight 14 by 14 polyethylene weave.
That means that these tarps are even more durable than the blue version.
Plus, the silver tarp has grommets placed at every 18 inches and a thickness of 10 mils.
The result is a heavy duty tarp that’s pretty much the best in the business.
If you need a robust tarp that can stand up to just about anything, then the silver Grizzly is for you.
One of the other aspects of the silver tarps that I appreciate is that they are UV proof.
UV rays are damaging to pretty much anything, so this extra layer of protection can be really important.
That’s especially true if you’re like me and you use your tarps constantly. And living in Arizona at a higher altitude, you have to watch out for sun damage during the summer months.
The Right Size for Every Application
The blue tarps from Grizzly are available in a range of sizes.
They are as small as five by seven feet and as large as 30 feet by 40 feet.
I haven’t had occasion to buy the largest size yet, but I don’t rule it out.
Silver Grizzlies are available in four sizes that include:
8 x 10
12 x 20
20 x 30
This diversity of sizes makes these tarps right for any application.
You Can Use Tarps Anywhere
This is especially true when they’re manufactured by Grizzly.
In fact, Grizzly sells its products to consumers and for industrial purposes.
In my job, I don’t have any need to use tarps, but if I did, I’d insist upon a Grizzly.
These products have proven themselves to me time and again.
Here are a few of the ways that I’ve used a Grizzly Tarps:
Whether you are camping in the Rocky Mountains, hiking the Grand Canyon rim,visiting Canada or bringing beverages for a sporting event, you will love having your Orca backpack cooler with you.
Outdoor enthusiasts know Orca for its exceptional line of coolers and drinkware. We own the Orca Pod backpack cooler. Living in hot, dry Tucson, AZ, it’s been a lifesaver for us.
Orca Backpack Coolers
Orca offers a variety of coolers. They make their backpack coolers in two sizes. We’ve never owned or even seen a backpack cooler until getting the Orca Pod.
We weren’t sure how it would work, what we would be able to fit, and how easy it would be to carry.
Realtree Max 5 Pod Backpack Cooler
The Pod holds 7.13 gallons (28.5 quarts). This is the larger of Orca’s two backpack coolers.
We have the camo print, called the Realtree Max 5. My husband plans on taking it Elk hunting this fall.
To give an idea of it’s size, you can put 15 pounds of ice in it along with 24 cans. While carrying all of this for a long time might pose a challenge for some, what’s great about this cooler is you have the option to carry it many different ways.
With traditional coolers you can only carry them by the handle, oftentimes with the cooler hitting you in the leg as you carry it. With the Pod, you can easily carry it on your back, using your body to manage the weight of whatever you put in the cooler.
While many people wouldn’t hike for miles with the max load of 59.5 pounds on their backs, it’s great the cooler can bear this weight, as drinks and ice are heavy.
Also, you can definitely comfortably carry it from your car to your campsite or picnic when it’s filled. The straps are padded. They are also adjustable, so whoever carries the cooler can get a good, stable fit.
It keeps food and drinks very cold, so even if you want to use it for hiking, you can manage it. You may just not want to use as much ice, so it will be lighter.
Orca Pod cooler review
We’ve used this cooler so far for camping with Boy Scouts, local sightseeing, on road trips, putting groceries in it while driving home, and for our kids’ sports.
Our favorite use has been taking it along with us when we sat through our kids’ brutally hot May and June weekend sports games and tournaments. Again, we live in Tucson, Arizona.
Sometimes we would be there all day — up to eight or nine hours — and having this cooler was an absolute blessing. In the mornings we would load it with ice, lots of water, sandwiches, lots of snacks, and even four cool towels.
Sometimes my husband would carry it, and other times we put it in our portable, collapsible wagon with our chairs. Even in the 100+ degree heat, we enjoyed cold drinks and intact food. My kids liked that their granola bars and sandwiches were as they would have been at home — cool and not melting.
We’ve also taken our Pod backpack cooler on road trips and local sightseeing. We have family that lives two hours away, and we often bring snacks for our kids as well as food for dinner for everyone.
In the summer months, we’ve put food in it — ice cream novelties, etc. — so it would keep on our 30 minute commute home from Costco. We didn’t even put ice in it always; it was just to keep it out of the sun.
It fits easily in our car, isn’t cumbersome, and is a great size for food, ice and drinks.
While we occasionally wipe it out, we always air it out to be sure it’s dry before we close it.
More features of the Orca Backpack
The interior is anti-microbial. It’s BPA-free and made with FDA-approved, food-grade materials.
The cooler walls are sturdy and reinforced. You can stack things on top of the cooler without worrying about it caving in.
Your drinks will stay cold in this cooler, for hours longer than you need them to. Just for fun, I put ice cubes in the cooler — filled about a quarter of the way — with nothing else. I put it outside on the sun-exposed hot brick on a 110 degree June day. I put it out in the morning by 8am (already in the nineties) and there was still ice in it by 7pm. Some had melted, but the vast majority was remaining which is incredible.
You can just tell it’s very well made. There is a heavy-duty zipper that’s very sturdy and seals completely.
We really enjoy using our Orca Pod backpack cooler. It’s been our go-to cooler now, no matter what we are doing or where we are going.
We like that it’s fairly light when it’s empty — 6.6 pounds (3 kg) — and that it doesn’t take up a lot of space in our trunk.
It measures: 18″ length x 11″ width x 18″ height.
Podster Backpack Cooler
The Podster, the smaller of the two, holds 3.5 gallons (14.25 quarts). Orca describes it as a day pack.
We own the larger one, the Pod, and haven’t used this cooler, the Podster.
However, while we don’t own it, I wanted to discuss how practical this cooler would be due to its smaller size. The Podster would be a great cooler to take hiking, short trips, really anywhere.
I could see our family using the Podster often. Being we live in a hot and dry climate, we carry water bottles with us everywhere we go, all year.
From April through November, when we set out across town, or sometimes even jaunts that are just 30 minutes, we usually pack extra water, just in case.
Also, with kids, I’m forever packing snacks. During the hot summer months, you can’t leave anything in the car with the heat, especially food.
It would be perfect to put everything in this Podster, eliminating the need for multiple bags, etc. I would easily just put my ice or ice packs in it along with water and snacks.
This seems like it would be convenient to take to the zoo, sporting events, and trips to the park. You would be able to carry it hiking or pretty much anything you wanted to do.
It comes in Fuschia, Seafoam/Grey, Coral/Grey, and Realtree Max 5 Camo.
It’s a bit smaller than the Pod, measuring 15″ length x 9″ width x 15″ height. Empty, it weighs 3.6 pounds (1.6 kg). Even though it’s small, it can hold up to 28.5 pounds.
Best backpack cooler
These are such high-quality coolers, and depending on your situation, both sizes are convenient. They are made to withstand weather and elements, keeping your food and drinks cold.
If you packed it with ice and put frozen foods inside, like steak, fish, etc., they would stay frozen for a long time safely. The Pod would be great to take if you are wanting to vacation off-the-grid for awhile or going to a rural or remote location.
Orca backpack coolers are portable, lightweight, and roomy.
Orca Backpack Coolers
There are many other great things about their backpack coolers. They are handy for hiking, hunting, fishing, camping, road trips and even for airplane traveling.
The compact sizes allow them to fit well in the overhead storage compartments of planes and trains, making them useful for almost any type of travel that your creative mind can dream up!
And while they are soft-sided, they are very sturdy and aren’t collapsible; they would withstand the demands of traveling.
Other features include padded straps with the addition of a T-strap across the chest to help distribute the weight when it is full.
The Pod and the Podster are manufactured with vacuum-sealed inner and outer walls.
While the Pod holds up to 24 cans with 15 pounds of ice, the Podster can accommodate 12, 12-ounce cans with 7.5 pounds of ice.
You can open and close either cooler and after days, most of the ice will still be intact.
What characteristics do the Orca Coolers have in common?
Both the Podster and the Pod include a tough inner shell made of foam and reinforced inner and outer walls that keep the cooler’s shape and prevent crushing and scratching.
Both models have doubly sealed waterproof zippers that prevent air and melted ice from leaking from the flip top.
The material surrounding the zipper is equally as tough and is designed to prevent rips, cuts, and is BPA-free and antimicrobial.
Orca has built them to keep your food not only cool and but safe, too.
Besides being covered with a tough vinyl, the Pod and the Podster include several sets of canvas straps.
These straps allow you to add a variety of accessories, such as a wine bottler opener or maybe your eating utensils.
Inside these backpack coolers is a shell made of a closed cell foam that prevents leakage and maintains stability, keeping your food and beverages at the correct temperature.
The well-padded shoulder straps of the Pod and Podster help distribute weight and keep the person carrying the cooler comfortable.
The Podster also has a third strap, called a T-strap, for use across the chest to help balance the cooler when it is full. (Remember, this one holds 59.5 pounds!)
Orca backpack cooler is built for functionality
These coolers are built for functionality. No oddly shaped pockets adorn them, only the canvas straps useful for accessories and tools.
With the lifetime warranty offered by Orca, the Pod and Podster backpack coolers will serve you for years.
Once you realize all the ways these coolers can be useful, you’ll find yourself using them for more than just hiking and camping.
Orca Chaser Travel Mug
We love our backpack cooler, and we were equally surprised at how much we enjoy the Orca Chaser.
This tumbler holds 27 ounces.
We have the Realtree Max 5 Chaser which is one of over 10 of their camo patterns. The Realtree Max 5 matches our Pod cooler.
We own a lot of travel mugs, travel cups, hot/cold cups, etc. “It’s just another travel mug,” is what I thought when I saw it. However, it has quickly become my husband’s ABSOLUTE FAVORITE to use.
He uses his Orca Chaser on a daily basis, at home and while commuting. He uses it all the time, so much so, that I haven’t ever used it.
However, on a long car ride, I asked him what made it his favorite — and he has a lot of tumblers, travel mugs, etc. “What makes the Orca so much better?” I asked him.
He really couldn’t say enough about it. He likes that it fits well in his hand and in the cup holder in both of our vehicles. And yes, it keeps his coffee hot and his ice and drinks cold.
But what he loves is the most is the tight seal and the lid.
He loves the lid. It doesn’t snap on; there’s a piece that fits into the mouth opening and holds it closed. He said, “The lid makes the cup.” It’s what sets it apart from all the others.
Orca Chaser holds 27 oz
They are made with 18/8 stainless steel and have a vacuum-sealed body to keep cold drinks cold and hot drinks hot.
The lid is Tritan polymer. It has a sip hole that can be used as is or with a straw.
Orca Chaser colors
There are dozens of color varieties and patterns available for the Orca Chaser. Unlike the stainless steel option, all of the other colors and patterns come with a transparent polymer lid in colors that compliment the travel mugs.
They have a stunning array of pastels, including floral patterns, including desert cacti, palm leaves, and flamingos.
There are also high gloss finishes in solid colors. You can even get an Orca tumbler with one of the state flags, NCAA teams, NHL teams, and more.
What else makes Orca travel mugs the best?
All of the travel mugs include self-sealing lids, easy-to-clean exteriors and interiors, and the double-wall vacuum-sealed technology found in Orca’s popular hard- and soft-sided coolers.
Check the horse’s eyes, ears, and mouth for any irregularities.
Check for bumps or scratches over his body.
Slide your hand over his hooves, one at a time, to confirm they are well.
Clean the hooves to remove any foreign matter.
The hoof area is an integral part of the horse’s body since the accumulation of debris here can lead to hoof infection, which can maim a horse.
Brush and clean the main and tail to eliminate dried mud, burrs, and other debris.
Use combs to untangle them to give them a well-groomed look.
Before riding your horse, you should brush him to be sure there isn’t debris where you will place the saddle.
If someone isn’t riding the horse every day, you can skip some of the care procedures.
How to Groom a Horse
There are two main elements to grooming a horse:
Brushing the coat
Cleaning the hooves
There is no right or wrong order to groom your horse.
However, it is a good idea to get into a routine and always do the process the same way, either feet or grooming first, so the horse can anticipate what you are going to do.
Start with your horse secured in cross ties that are attached to the halter.
This ensures that the horse cannot flick one way or the other, plus it frees up both of your hands to work with the grooming.
If you are trying to both groom and hold the horse, you are likely going to find this much more difficult, and there is a greater chance of injury.
With the horse secured, start either on the grooming or on the hooves, whichever you prefer.
Cleaning the hooves
Many owners prefer to start by cleaning the hooves.
Then your horse can relax and enjoy the rest of the routine.
To correctly position yourself, stand next to the horse’s left front shoulder, just to the front of the body.
Run your hand, the hand you don’t normally hold the pick in, down the front of the leg until you reach the hoof.
Most horses that have had their feet cleaned will pick up their foot, but if they don’t, gently press your shoulder and upper body against the outside of the shoulder, which will slightly move the horse off balance.
He or she will shift weight to the other front foot.
When this happens, pick the left foot up, bending the leg as it would naturally bend back toward the center of the horse’s body.
Hold the hoof firmly in your hand.
Use the pick to remove all the debris.
Be very careful not to dig into the frog, which is the soft, triangular-shaped center part of the hoof.
This area can be very sensitive.
Repeat this process with the other hoof until completed.
Be sure to give a treat to the horse after the first hoof and then after you finished the second.
This helps him know he’s doing a great job.
Having a farrier tool kit would be essential as well.
Grooming a horse
When grooming equine, you can either start with the mane or the tail.
If the horse is dirty, muddy or has a winter coat, start with the curry comb and groom the entire body using gentle, circular shaped motions that follow the direction of hair growth.
Work from the neck to the chest, over the shoulders, down the back of the sides and the legs.
Remember, the curry comb is not flexible.
Be sure to be very gentle on the sides and down the legs.
If your horse is flinching and twitching away, switch to the dandy brush over the sensitive areas.
After the curry comb, follow the same pattern with the dandy brush.
This will flick away all the dust and dead hair.
Follow-up with the body brush for a shiny, sleek look.
Then gently use the body brush on the face, but not near the eyes.
You can use a wet soft cloth or sponge to clean around the eyes and inside the nostrils.
Be sure to rinse it out after each use.
Again, being predictable and gentle with your horses will calm them.
Having the proper grooming supplies will help you to groom them faster and more thoroughly.
Just be sure to wear gloves when applying it to your horses.
Take the time to clean your brushes and combs so when you groom your horse the items will be clean.
You need to ensure that your horse’s nose and eyes are clean and healthy and wiping these down with a damp sponge is very important.
By you grooming your horse every day you are not only bonding with them but also helping to check them over.
You can tell if there are any lumps and bumps and maybe if they are showing signs of un-comfort.
If you are concerned, then you should speak to your vet who can check the horse out more thoroughly.
If you spend the time to get to know your horse by horse grooming, then they will respond with kindness and love.
Horses should be groomed daily if at all possible.
If you are riding, it is important to groom both before and after every ride, paying careful attention to the feet.
A well-groomed horse is a healthy horse.
Both you and he will feel better for a good grooming.
Farrier Tools to Care for Your Horse’s Hoofs
If you are a horse owner or enjoy working with horses and grooming your horse, then you may have entertained the idea of learning how to maintain a horse’s hoofs.
It can seem like quite an intimidating task, especially since the health of the hoof is imperative to the overall soundness of the animal.
With the right farrier tools, any task can be accomplished with relative ease.
The first step is collecting a number of suitable supplies that will help you perform basic maintenance tasks.
Experienced farriers have a veritable arsenal of expensive tools and accessories at their disposal.
There is no need for you to develop a similar collection unless you are planning to take on all shoeing and hoof maintenance tasks yourself.
You also might need to expand your collection if you plan to become a professional farrier.
The list we have compiled here is meant to guide you through the process of acquiring the basic tools of the trade.
Each item has been carefully reviewed for its durability, functionality and effectiveness.
Most items on the list are economically priced.
We went this direction with the understanding that these tools would be used by the horse owner who will only be responsible for incidental maintenance or for those who are simply wanting to learn more about being a farrier.
Accordingly, you can pick up all five of these tools without breaking the bank.
What you’ll have in the end is a basic farrier tool kit that will let you take care of routine hoof maintenance.
Horse and Livestock Run In Sheds, Agriculture Storage Sheds
There is a rich glossary of terminology used throughout the farrier world.
Having a firm grasp of these terms can allow the enthusiast to better understand the trade.
Listed below are some of the more common terms found in articles, at professional events, and within the conversations of trainers, farriers, vets, and horse owners.
This list provides just an overview of the vocabulary used to describe the hoof of a horse, and is by no means comprehensive.
Action: The way in which a horse moves during various gaits.
Bar: The section found on the bottom of the hoof and on the sides of the frog where the hoof turns inward.
Boxy Hooves: Slender, vertical hooves with a narrow frog and a heel that is closed. Also known as a clubbed foot.
Brushing Boots: An instrument used to guard a horse’s leg from injuries related to brushing.
Brushing: A situation where the horse’s hoof or shoe collides with the inner part of its opposite leg, typically near the fetlock joint. This is often caused by poor conformation or action.
Bulbs: The two circular bulges at the rear of the hoof.
Cast: A term referring to a horse loosing a shoe, usually by accident; for example, “the horse cast a shoe last week.”
Cannon Bone: A bone found above a horse’s fetlock, in both the fore and hind legs. Also known as the shank bone.
Club Foot: An alternative term for Boxy Hooves.
Coffin Bone: The bone of the horse closest to the ground. It is surrounded by the hoof capsule.
Conformation: The correctness of a horse’s physical structure, including bone and muscular structure, as well as body proportions.
Coronet: The section of the hoof immediately above the hornlike growth; the part where hoof growth takes place.
Cracked Heel: A condition where the hoof is inflamed, with cracked skin and pus discharge.
Deep Going: Ground that is soft and wet, causing the hooves to sink in.
Dropped Sole: The downward movement of the front of the coffin bone within the hoof as a result of laminitis.
Farrier: A craftsman specializing in the care of horse hooves, including trimming an shoeing.
Fetlock: A joint on the leg of a horse found between the canon bone and pastern.
Flat-Footed: A characteristic of a hoof where the angle is significantly less than 45 degrees.
Founder: A condition where the laminae is inflamed; also known as laminitis.
Frog: The fleshy area in the center of the bottom of the hoof.
Heel: The rear portion of the bottom of the hoof.
Hoof Capsule: The outer portion of the hoof.
Hoof Pick: A tool used to remove dirt and other debris from the hoof.
Hoof: The foot of a horse.
Horn: The outer covering of the hoof, which is tough and insensitive.
Hoof Wall: The visible outer portion of the hoof, which is composed of horny material, and grows continuously.
Laminae: The interior lining of the hoof.
Laminitis: A condition where the laminae is inflamed; also known as founder.
Lateral Cartilages: The strips of cartilage attached to the coffin bone inside of the foot.
Navicular Bone: A bone inside of the hoof, small in size, which is found between the short pastern and coffin bone.
Navicular Disease: A disease affecting the navicular bone, where the bone degenerates, causing the animal pain and potentially causing lameness.
Nerve Block: A veterinarian tool used to diagnose the location of a horse’s lameness. The tool accomplishes this task by blocking the nerves of the foot and leg in a progressive manner until the problem are is located.
Neurectomy: A medical procedure where nerves are severed which provided sensation to the foot. This procedure is used to treat navicular disease, and is also known as de-nerving.
Pastern: The section of a horse’s leg above the top of the hoof and below the fetlock.
Pathological: A condition that is disease-based.
Rasp: An instrument used for shaping wood or other materials. A farrier’s rasp is used to remove excess portions of the hoof wall from the bottom of a hoof.
Seedy Toe: A condition where the laminae is separated from the hoof wall, often as a result of neglecting foot care.
Shoe, To: The process of attaching metal shoes to the hooves of a horse. This work is typically done by a farrier.
Sidebone: Hardening of the cartilage on the sides of the coffin bone.
Sole: The area of the bottom of the hoof from the front portion of the white line to the frog.
Thrush: A condition where the frog degenerates; this is usually accompanied by infection and blackening of the afflicted area; this condition often stems from horses being kept in unsanitary housing.
White Line: A structure on the bottom of the hoof that separates the sensitive areas of the hoof from the insensitive areas.
American Farriers Association
The American Farrier Assocation is a national association devoted to the development of farriers and the industry through leadership, resources and education.
Each and every effort made by the organization is based on the five tenets of Education, Certification, Communication, Research and Innovation. http://www.americanfarriers.org/
Brotherhood of Working Farriers Association
The Brotherhood of Working Farriers Association is a non-profit organization aimed at providing horse owners with accurate information on shoeing by professional farriers.
This organization is the largest farrier association in the world by membership count including farriers, horse owners and members of the public interested in the farrier profession.
The Brotherhood of Working Farrier Association also promotes farrier certification and encourages horse owners to seek certified farriers when shoeing. http://www.bwfa.net/
American Association of Professional Farriers
The American Association of Professional Farriers was launched in January 2012 with the intent to promote the integrity of the farrier industry by strengthening the knowledge and skills of its members through continuing education and support at the state, national and international levels while improving overall equine health through collaboration with other industry professionals.
The Farrier Assocation of Washington State is a Washington-based organization devoted to enhancing communication and learning between farriers and to increase overall horse industry communication.
The FAWS also organizes clinics and conventions for all professionals in the horse industry in order to exchange views and thoughts as well as exchange information about their profession.
San Diego County Farriers Association
The San Diego County Farriers Association is a non-profit organization promoting sound and safe practices of the farrier science within the Sand Diego County.
The SDCFA also seeks to provide education and hands-on experience in the field of farriery and horse care. http://www.sdcfa.org/
Rocky Mountain Farrier Association
The Rocky Mountain Farrier Association is a non-profit organization based out of the Rocky Mountain region dedicated to organizing professional farriers and others within horse related professions in sharing and promoting interest in the science of farriery.
The Pennsylvania Professiona Farrier Association is a Pennsylvania based organization devoted to organizing farriers and horse-related professionals and to facilitate education regarding the farrier industry and profession.
The PPFA also seeks to promote the farrier industry within the community and encourage learning about the profession for those interested. http://www.pafarriers.com/
Georgia Professional Farrier’s Association
The Georgia Professional Farrier’s Association is a Georgia-based organization dedicated to educating members and the public alike in shoeing methods and business management.
The Indiana Farrier’s Association is an Indiana-based organization whose purpose it is to promote and encourage quality in the farrier industry as well as sponsoring and promoting educational farriery meetings and activities. http://www.indianafarriers.org/
South Carolina Farrier’s Association
The South Carolina Farrier’s Association is a South Carolina association dedicated to educating all farriers.
The SCFA hosts clinics each month in an effort to continually improve its members.
The SCFA is an official state chapter of the American Farriers Association.
Texas Professional Farriers Association
The Texas Professional Farriers Assocation is a Texas based group whose purpose it is to increase skill level and better business practices for all farriers within the greater Texas area.
The TPFA has also developed a multi-level certification program and host regular clinics and family gatherings. http://www.tpfa.org/
Missouri Farriers’ Association
The Missouri Farriers’ Association is a group of farriers dedicated to continuing the education of practicing farriers within the greater Missouri area.
The MFA is also a registered chapter of the Brotherhood of Working Farriers.
Minnesota Farriers Association
An association devoted to education Minnesota farriers and promoting clinics, meetings and seminars for the purpose of bringing professional farriers together.
The MFA also promotes the sharing of information and skills for the benefit or horses and the industry.
Maryland Farriers Association
The Maryland Farriers Association is a local chapter of the American Farriers Assocation for the greater Maryland Area.
The Guild of Professional Farriers’ sole mission is to improve the farrier profession through continued education, documentation of the science, independent testing and ensuring members continue to improve their trade and art through practice and education.
Farriers of Idaho Guild
The Farriers of Idaho Guild is an Idaho-based group dedicated to the professional development of farriers through leadership and resources for the benefit of the industry and its members.
The FIG is a registered state chapter of the American Farriers Association.
Southern New England Farriers Association
The Southern New England Farriers Association is a chapter of the American Farriers Association.
The goal of SNEFA is to establish high ethical standards, continuously improve farrier skills through education and professional development, and to promote safe and applicable hoof care standards. http://www.snefa.org
Western New York Farrier’s Association
A member chapter of the American Farrier’s Association, the WNYFA is comprised of independent professional farriers working in the areas stretching from Buffalo to Syracuse.
The WNYFA was established in 1981 for the education and training of farriers and to help improve the service to horses and owners
Western Canadian Farrier’s Association
The Western Canadian Farrier’s Association is a non-profit whose main purpose it is to promote excellence in the science of farriery.
The WCFA seeks to inform the public and horse owners of the quality and standard of horse farriers and to better those standards of quality. http://www.wcfa.ca/
Ontario Farrier’s Association
The Ontario Farriers Association is an Ontario-based non-profit organization that speaks for the interests of its members regarding hoof care.
The OFA also seeks to improve the skills of its members and provide standards for quality within the industry.
Brotherhood of Working Farriers Certification
There is no licensing requirements for farriers within the United States and Canada; however, several trade organizations offer voluntary farrier certifications that can give you peace of mind that you are working with a reputable professional.
All certifications include written testing on topics including hoof trimming, horseshoe application and everyday hoof care as well as mastery of hands on forging skills.
The Brotherhood of Working Farriers Association (BWFA) is the oldest non-profit farrier organization in the country.
Certification is offered through their Master Educator Schools and private BWFA Testers across the United States.
BWFA has four certification levels.
BWFA Apprentice II Certification:
Any farrier who completes a six-week class with a reputable school is eligible.
Testing includes a written exam, hands on shoeing test and a forging test during which applicants must create a simple machine-made shoe.
BWFA Journeyman I Certification:
In addition to more difficult written and shoeing exams; applicants must forge several types of hand-made shoes and perform several shoe modifications as instructed.
This certification in open to farriers with at least one year of experience.
BWFA Journeyman II Certification:
Farriers must have at least three years of experience and currently work at least part-time at the trade.
The written test is more technically challenging.
Applicants at this level must also produce a specified corrective shoe and several others.
BWFA Master Farrier Certification:
This highest level of BWFA certification and is reserved for professionals with no less than seven years of experience who are currently working full-time at the trade.
This certification requires both a written and forging test.
In addition, live hand-made shoeing is required for types and breeds of horses chosen by the tester.
American Farrier Association Certification
The American Farriers Association (AFA) is one of the primary certifying organizations in the United States.
For 30 years, the AFA has provided a certification program that entails a blend of standardized testing and hands-on application.
There are four main categories of certification provided by AFA:
AFA Farrier Classification:
An entry level certification that includes both written and practical exams on the basics of the skill.
Certified Farrier (AFA CF):
Certification is open to any farrier with at least one year of experience.
He or she must pass both the written and practical exams as well as prepare and explain a display of horseshoes.
Certified Tradesman Farrier (AFA CTF):
In addition to the above tests, applicants must demonstrate skills at properly fitting a hand-made shoe during a timed test.
This certification is available to professionals with at least two years of experience and have completed AFA CF.
Certified Journeyman Farrier (AFA CJF):
This most technical certification is open to professionals with two years of experience who complete the CF certification and demonstrate ability to forge and fit a corrective shoe within a time limit.
Guild of Professional Farriers Registration
The Guild of Professional Farriers is the third organization to offer a certification process for farriers.
Less developed than the groups mentioned above, the Guild provides “registration” at three levels.
This registration is offered to professional farriers with at least three years of experience.
It requires a written test and shoeing exam, including presentation of a shoe display.
Farriers must have at least four years of experience, currently be working full-time at the trade and have previously passed farrier registration.
In addition to a written and forging exam, the applicant must perform live shoeing.
Full Time Farrier:
This registration does not require examination, but is only open to farriers who can verify that at least 70% of their annual income comes from the trade.
Farrier & Horseshoeing Schools
Meredith Manor Farrier School
Meredith Manor Farrier School will give you both the theoretical knowledge and the practical hands-on experience needed for a successful farrier career.
Our farrier students gain invaluable experience working with and studying our 150 school horses of varying breeds, disciplines, and training levels including upper level dressage horses, reining horses, eventers, and more.
Pacific Coast Horseshoeing School was founded by Bob Smith in 1991.
PCHS makes an effort to educate every student properly and to prepare them for a career in farriers.
The 8-week program includes daily classroom instruction in anatomy, physiology, conformation, and business practices. Students are also given hands-on experience in forging and shoeing on a daily basis. http://www.farrierschool.com/
Five Star Horseshoeing School
The Five Star Horseshoeing School is dedicated to providing a strong education foundation for students who want a career in farriery. FSHS offers three program options.
The 6-week program is an introductory course, the 8-week program teaches students basic shoeing techniques, and the 12-week course is an advanced program that prepares students for a career in equine hoof-care. http://www.futurefarrier.com/Home_Page.php
Wolverine Farrier School
The Wolverine Farrier School offers a comprehensive, 16-week farrier course.
The program includes daily classroom lectures and discussions to insure students continue to learn proper techniques.
An important part of the course is hands-on forge work and shoeing.
Students also learn how to make and repair their own tools.
Montana State University Farrier School
The Montana State University Farrier School prepares students for careers as professional farriers.
The program lasts for eleven weeks.
Upon completion of the program, students will be prepared for the American Farrier Association certification exam.