Modern Homesteading, Rural Living, Off-Grid, Generators
Backyard Chickens and Roosters
Backyard chickens and roosters can be a great addition to your homestead. Backyard chickens, sometimes called urban chickens, are fowl breeds that you can raise in a typical backyard. Chickens are an excellent food source. They produce eggs. Later, as the chickens mature and their egg production declines, they produce meat.
Raising Backyard Chickens and Roosters
Chickens are trending as people become more concerned where their food comes. Raising chickens in their own backyard give people more control of the quality of eggs produced. Perhaps they choose to free range the chickens or feed them with organic feeds only. This significantly increases the health factor of the eggs and also the meat from the chicken. There are also people who sell eggs and who are keeping chickens as part of a survival or prepping plan.
And what about raising a rooster? Are you considering one? We explore all there is to know about roosters so you can make the right decision.
Incubation for Beginners – Hatching your own chickens can be an educational and rewarding experience and with the right equipment and some best practices you can be on your way to having backyard chickens in no time.
Incubation allows backyard poultry enthusiasts to hatch chickens and ensure the eggs are developing correctly in a controlled environment.
Incubators are able to control the temperature, humidity and turn the eggs automatically making the egg hatching process stress-free.
While you can incubate eggs any time of the year, spring is considered the best time to raise chickens because of the warmer weather which is ideal for new chicks.
If you’re considering hatching your own flock of backyard chickens, (Best Nutrition Plan for Healthy Chickens) here are a few tips that will make egg hatching a success.
Incubation for Beginners by Brinsea, Inc.
Choose a good incubator
To find a quality incubator, we recommend looking at the functionality.
Does it have an accurate temperature control?
Can it be cleaned easily?
Can turning the eggs be done automatically?
You’ll also want to look at the sizing.
For example, how many eggs, and what type of eggs does a specific incubator hold?
Especially as a beginner, these are important qualities to look for in an incubator to ensure yourself the best possible chance at successful hatching.
Also, read the reviews, and don’t be afraid to ask questions, either to the manufacturer directly or in online social spaces.
Getting the Eggs
Once you’ve decided on the right incubator for your situation, you’ll need to find fertilized eggs.
If you already have hens and a rooster then you are good to go.
If you don’t have a rooster, then it’s always best to source your fertilized eggs locally because they will be fresher and their chances of hatching won’t be affected by shipping.
Setting Up Your Incubator
Before setting the eggs in the incubator, read through the incubator’s manual to ensure everything is working properly.
An important step to note is to make sure the eggs are at room temperature before setting them.
Once eggs have reached room temperature, place them in the incubator on their side or pointed end down and do not adjust the temperature for 24 hours.
Importance of Temperature and Humidity
In order for the fertilized eggs to develop correctly, they need to be kept at the correct temperature and turned often and positioned in the right way.
Humidity is also crucial because eggs breathe and lose water through the pores of the shell.
Small changes in temperatures can cause eggs to develop too fast or too slow which could result in deaths or deformities.
The correct temperature for most species when incubating is 99.5°F when using a forced draft incubator.
However, there are incubators without fans and if you are using one, the temperature should be set at 103°F because hot air rises.
No matter the incubator, room temperature should always be between 68°F and 78°F and kept out of direct sunlight to get the best results.
Incorrect humidity is one of the main causes for poor hatching success because it is the most difficult to measure and control accurately.
Humidity is important only to achieve the right balance between excessive dehydration and space within the egg to allow the chick to maneuver into hatching position.
Humidity is affected by evaporation from the eggs themselves and the incubator water reservoirs.
All incubators have water reservoirs and ventilation holes, some have digital humidity displays and ventilation controls.
Humidity levels are measured in % Relative Humidity (% RH).
Ideal humidity during incubation is 40-50% RH for poultry and game birds and 45-55% for waterfowl.
If the humidity is too high, you will need to increase the ventilation or if the incubator does not have a ventilation control, remove water.
Conversely, if humidity is too low, you will need to reduce ventilation and add water.
Humidity at hatching time needs to be higher than during incubation, at least 60% RH to prevent the membranes of the egg drying too fast as the chick hatches and becoming tough and difficult to tear.
Turn, Turn, Turn Eggs
Positioning and turning the eggs is important for egg development because as the embryo develops on the yolk, it causes the yolk to become lighter and float upwards.
When the egg is turned, the embryo moves downwards into fresh nutrients in white of the egg allowing the embryo to develop.
Note that most modern incubators turn the eggs automatically.
Using an incubator with this automatic feature is the best way to ensure the eggs are turned consistently and accurately.
However, if you are turning eggs manually, mark each egg with and X on one side and O on the other with a pencil.
This helps with remembering what side they need to be turned to.
This should be done a minimum of twice a day, to prevent the embryo sticking to the sides of the shell.
Turning should be stopped two days prior to when the chicks are scheduled to hatch.
Certain models with the automatic turning setting will also stop turning the eggs two days before they are due.
Incubation Period
An incubation period varies between birds but for chickens, it takes 21 days.
To check on the state of the embryo, the candling method is used.
In the past, people would use candles to shine on the eggs to see how the development process was going.
Now we are able to use LED lights which don’t emit heat.
Eggs can be candled after 5 days of incubation and every few days after that. For best results, light the eggs in a dark room. Initially, you will be able to see a small embryo and a web of blood vessels radiating from it.
As the chick grows it will be hard to make out detail but you should be able to see movement.
However, if the egg is infertile it will remain clear and eggs that have died will show a dark ring.
Time to Hatch
Two days before the eggs are due to hatch, you should stop turning and make sure the water reservoirs are filled.
Humidity will need to be higher than normal so it’s important not to open the incubator.
It will take about 24 hours or more from the first bump on the shell until the chicks fully hatch.
After the chicks have hatched and are fully fluffed, transfer them to a brooder where they can stay warm.
This experience is very exciting so enjoy watching how your eggs develop and have fun.
For more information on incubators and chicken hatching, visit www.brinsea.com.
Something to keep in mind, when it comes to the question of bird treats, is whether they encourage behavior among your chickens.
Large bricks of bird treats sit in one place in a coop or cage, where chickens go over to peck at them.
This means your birds are learning to sit tight and wait for food to come to them, without scratching, walking, or working in any way to get it.
Not only that, but they also tend to attract rodents. These are, by and large, best to be avoided.
All in all, with birds as with people.
Everything is better in moderation.
Train your chickens to understand the sound of a shaking jar full of sunflower seeds to be something that happens from time to time.
A teaspoon of meal-worms is more than enough protein for any bird.
Keep your coop stocked with enough compost to foster the natural occurrence of grubs and bugs, for birds to peck at.
Fresh Water for Chickens
Often an afterthought, access to fresh water is actually the single most important part of your chicken’s diet.
In order to keep dirt and grime out of the water, put it somewhere elevated off of the ground, and clean out the bowl weekly.
You’ll notice your chickens tend to prefer muddy water puddles, but, much like children, they need someone who knows better to take care of them.
Never underestimate how important water is.
If your chickens don’t drink, for whatever reason, they can expire and die within 24 hours.
Note On Feeding Chicks
Young chicks are dependent on you to feed them, especially in the first few days of their life.
Feed should be finely ground, containing no more than 18% protein.
This specialized chick feed should be administered for 14 to 18 weeks before they shift over to adult food.
Finally, make sure not to feed them any additives or products that promise to promote or speed up their growth.
These are almost always used in growing meat birds, and the resultant spurt in their muscle growth is not healthy for them.
Change The Way You Use Your Chicken Feed
Taking care of your chickens is a 24-hour-a-day process.
You need to make sure you’re feeding them properly, or their health can take a turn for the worse, quickly.
Whether you go for organic, high-fat, hand-made or store bought, a little nutrition goes a long way.
Make sure you don’t over-stuff your birds on fatty foods, and always keep their well-being in mind during mealtimes.
Interested in learning more about bird rearing, rural living, and sustainable lifestyle tips?
You can learn more about modern homesteading by paying us a small visit, today.
Feeding Chickens
Feeding Chickens: What They Need at Different Stages
Did you know chickens today are almost five times bigger than their 1957 counterparts?
A Canadian study shows this isn’t because they’ve been tanked up with hormones or other size-enhancing drugs.
The research concluded that it’s because we’ve bred chickens to be bigger over the years by giving preference to the larger ones.
So, it’s still a good idea to follow feeding guidelines for your chickens based on their age and stage in life.
Let’s take a look at how feeding chickens according to their stage can make all the difference.
The Early Chick Stage
The early chick stage refers to the time between birth and about 8 weeks.
Just as a growing infant needs certain nutrients to develop a healthy and strong body, so does a chick.
During this stage of life, chicks need what’s called a starter feed or starter crumble.
This feed must contain at least 15% protein for the developing chicks.
Medicated Diet
Medicated starter feed contains amproleum, which works to safeguards chicks from a fatal intestinal illness called coccidiosis.
This illness is contracted through contact with feces.
This is why it’s important to keep your chicken coop from becoming too crowded and unclean.
Warm, humid weather makes for a moist environment and is a breeding ground for coccidiosis.
There is a coccidiosis vaccine.
If your chicks have been vaccinated, it’s best not to choose the unmediated diet.
Unmedicated Diet
Unmedicated starter feed simply doesn’t have amproleum in it.
This is best used if you’re at all unsure of whether your chicks have been vaccinated.
The Middle Chick Stage
The middle chick stage ranges from 8 to 18 weeks old.
Think of this as your chicken’s teen years.
This is when grower feed comes into play.
The grower feed cuts the protein down from the starter feed during the early stage.
The protein content is about 15-17% and requires grit along with it.
If you continue your chicks on a high protein diet, it can push them into laying eggs sooner than their bodies are ready for.
Think of a 14-year-old girl who gets pregnant.
Not a good situation.
Laying Hens
When chicks reach 18-20 weeks, they may be prepared to start laying eggs.
For your laying hens, you can choose the pellet, crumble or mash versions of layer feed.
Layer feed has vital calcium for eggshell production.
The layer feed uses 15-17% protein with additional calcium for strong eggshells.
Even though there’s extra calcium, your laying hens will benefit from crumbled oyster shells presented in a separate bowl from the layer feed.
Laying hens will only ever eat as many oyster shells as they need.
This helps ensure your hens don’t become depleted of calcium.
Note that layer feed should never be given to chickens under 18 weeks of age.
This is because the excess calcium can damage the kidneys, cause kidney stones to develop and can decrease the bird’s overall lifespan.
Non-Laying Hens and Roosters
A maintenance diet is necessary for non-laying hens and roosters.
This chicken feed still has the nutrients and vitamins that laying feed does, without the added calcium.
The maintenance diet can be accompanied by chicken scratch.
Scratch is composed of various grains, one of which is typically cracked corn.
And it’s very high in calories.
Scratch should be used infrequently and in small amounts.
Feeding Chicken Snacks
The occasional treat for your chickens is fine.
And they’ll love you for it.
Just make sure not to allow them to indulge too often.
Keep the snacks down to every couple days.
Chicken Treats
Pumpkin rinds
Mealworms
Oatmeal balls
Leftovers from dinner
And, since chickens don’t have teeth, remember to provide grit to help them digest these snacks.
Grit is made from sand or small pieces of stone.
Steer Clear of These Foods When Feeding Chickens
There are some foods that are toxic to your chickens and should be avoided at all cost.
Avocado seeds and skin
Dried beans
Unripe tomatoes
Green-tinted potatoes
Cocoa
Any food with mold on it
Chickens Will Eat Anything
Remember, even though chickens can be cute and lovable, they’re not the brightest of the bunch.
They’ll eat just about anything.
So, be mindful of what’s in their exercise area.
Especially watch for small plastic toys, nails, coins or bits of wire.
Joint Feeding Times
When you have a situation where you’ve many different age groups, don’t despair.
These circumstances aren’t optimal, but they’re also quite common.
In this situation, it’s best to provide an un-medicated grower/starter diet, along with available calcium such as crushed oyster shells or eggshells.
Don’t forget to put the calcium supplement in a separate bowl to allow the hens to determine the amount they need.
This is the best solution because the extra protein won’t harm the older chickens.
But the excessive calcium in layer feed can harm the developing kidneys of younger birds.
Open Versus Restricted Feeding
Chickens are generally grazers and only eat when they know they need to.
For this reason, a free or open feeding schedule is best.
This gives your chickens the freedom to meet their own hunger needs and at their leisure.
Food Crisis
In the event of a food crisis on your farm or in your wallet, where you just don’t have access to the nutrient-rich diet mentioned above, do the best you can.
For instance, if you can’t afford or don’t have access to crushed oyster shells, feel free to use crushed eggshells.
While it’s ideal to be able to afford feeder and supplements for your chickens, you can make do with alternatives.
And remember, the most crucial of all diets when feeding chickens is the laying hen’s diet.
Her task is strenuous and exhausting.
She needs all the calcium and protein she can get.
Feeding Chickens at Different Stages
When feeding chickens, you want to make sure you’re tailoring their diet to meet their specific needs.
They’re omnivores and just like us, they need balanced nutrition to keep them strong.
For more tips and information on how to raise your animals to be their healthiest, check out our post on caring for livestock.
Chicken diseases – Do you have a backyard flock of chickens?
There are lots of benefits of keeping chickens.
However, in order to be a responsible chicken owner, you have to make sure they stay healthy.
Otherwise, they could stop laying altogether.
This means preventing contraction of diseases, treating them when they occur, and possibly even culling chickens when they’re in danger of spreading dangerous infections.
In this article, we’ll tell you all about the most common chicken diseases, how to spot them, and how to treat them if you find them in your coop.
Fowl Pox
This disease is usually not deadly, but is known to take the lives of young or particularly weak chickens.
It usually lasts 10-14 days in a bird, but can take up to 6 weeks to eradicate from a flock.
Symptoms of Fowl Pox
White spots on the skin, Comb sores, Mouth or trachea ulcers and Laying stops.
It can be contracted from other contaminated chickens, but is also carried by mosquitoes.
Fowl Pox can be treated with Vitamin supplements, particularly Vitamins A, D and E. During treatment, chickens need to eat soft food in order to allow the mouth ulcers to heal.
They also need a warm and dry place to rest.
In order to avoid this disease, it’s best to get your chickens vaccinated.
Botulism
Botulism is one of the most serious chicken diseases there is, as the symptoms progress very quickly and the death rate is very high.
It’s caused by contamination of food or water by rotting meat, and most commonly occurs in summer and fall, when temperatures are warm enough for the bacteria to thrive.
This illness is not passed on from bird to bird, but can affect an entire flock if they all share the same source of food and water.
Symptoms of Botulism
Weakness and nervousness, Tremors or shaking, Feathers are easy to pull out.
Paralysis of the legs, which progresses to the wings and neck before a chicken then suddenly dies.
If the disease is caught early enough, it can be treated with an antitoxin by a vet.
However, a home remedy of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed with 1 oz of warm water given daily with a dropper can also work.
Infectious Bronchitis
Infectious Bronchitis is a common chicken disease in backyard flocks.
This is because most wild flocks develop a resistance to it from increased exposure.
Symptoms of Infectious Bronchitis
Decrease in eating and drinking
Discharge from eyes and nostrils
Coughing, gasping or loud breathing
Decreased egg laying
Misshapen or soft-shelled eggs
Sluggishness
Chickens can be vaccinated against infectious bronchitis.
However, this doesn’t guarantee that they won’t be infected.
Instead, it just decreases the chance of contracting it.
If you notice any symptoms, you’ll need to act quickly.
This viral disease is known to spread quickly and can kill entire flocks if left untreated.
There is no specific treatment for Infectious bronchitis, but some chicken owners report having success with herbal remedies.
Infectious Coryza
This bacterial disease infects the eyes or nose and is highly infectious.
Symptoms of Infectious Coryza
Swollen head or face
Sneezing
Coughing
Discharge from eyes and nostrils
Reluctance to eat or drink
Breathing difficulties
Ceased laying
Staggering
This chicken disease is usually treated with antibiotics.
However, if it has progressed past the point of treatment, infected chickens should be put down to avoid passing the disease on to the rest of the flock.
Unfortunately, there is no vaccine against infectious coryza.
Pullorum
This disease is viral and can, therefore, be contracted through contact with other infected birds as well as contaminated surfaces.
Like Chicken Pox in humans, this illness affects infant and adults differently.
Symptoms of Pullorum
Sneezing, coughing and poor laying in adult birds.
Breathing difficulties, low activity and a white paste on the backsides of chicks.
There is currently no vaccine against Pullorum, so the best way to protect against it is to be aware of the signs and symptoms, then put down any chickens that contract the disease.
Avian Influenza
Avian Influenza is the most commonly-known chicken disease, also known as Bird Flu.
Scientifically known as Gallus domesticus, the chicken is said to be first tamed in China around 6000 BC.
Four thousand years later, flocks of them moved to India, eventually spreading to other parts of the world.
The bird as a male adult is called a rooster, while its female counterpart is called a hen.
Young chickens, newly-hatched ones in particular, are called chicks.
One type of chicken subject to Chinese-origin debate is the Chinese Silkie chicken, which are popular for their dark meat.
It is unknown whether or not they originated from China, where they are called “wu go ji”.
Their dark flesh is attributed to a condition called genetic fibromelanosis, which causes extreme pigmentation of cells.
Chickens abide by a rigid social system referred to as the “pecking order”.
This structure puts one bird dominant over another.
This can be easily observed while feeding.
Dominant birds will be intimidating, pecking at submissive ones, stealing their food or chasing them away.
Though it may sound weird, chickens are also touted to be the closest living relative of the Tyrannosaurus rex – arguably the most popular dinosaur thanks to popular culture.
The link lies in the oldest proteins ever found, contained in the remains of an adolescent female T. Rex which lived 68 million years from the past.
As it turns out, the protein’s chemical structure reveals an evolutionary relation between chickens and the dinosaurs that reigned during the Cretaceous Period.
The fossil, a T. Rex’s leg bone, is unearthed in 2003 by Jack Horner of the Museum of the Rockies.
It was found at the Hell Creek Formation, an area that spans Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota and Wyoming.
Chickens have their own “language” too, in the form of about 30 distinct vocalizations used for communication.
But what’s even more interesting is the fact that they are able to communicate even before their birth.
Through a purring sound, the mother hen “talks” to her eggs, and the unborn chicks respond through peeps – short, soft and high-pitched sounds.
It must also be pointed that chickens are not “dumb”.
In fact, mother hens serve as good examples by teaching their chicks not to consume grains which could be bad for them.
In addition, they tend to copy the behavior of other chickens, which could be helpful in some cases.
But perhaps the most fascinating fact about these birds is that they are able to recognize up to 100 faces, so the next time you see one, be sure you are remembered.
It all starts with their own version of “courting”, of course.
This is actually simple – the rooster tries to impress the hen through a series of movements that highlight his beauty and strength.
Unfortunately, most hens just walk away, but things can get into a more aggressive turn and result to an engagement activity/position known as “treading”.
The rooster gets into a piggy-back position; he stands on the hen’s back and restrains her neck feathers.
It is vital for him to maintain balance in this event.
The hen lowers herself, spreads her wings to the side and allows him to hop to deliver sperm.
Chickens mate without copulatory organs, though the rooster has a pair of testes, and the hen has a pair of ovaries.
Both sexes instead have an external orifice called cloaca.
As these touch together, the rooster transfers sperm into the hen’s reproductive tract.
This is called the “cloacal kiss”, and after the act, each return to his/her own business.
One of the most puzzling questions to mankind – which often comes as a joke – asks which among the chicken and the egg came first.
Surprisingly, this inquiry has been raised since 384 BC, and some of the most well-known people from history have expressed their responses to the circular reference.
Aristotle claimed that both had always existed.
Theoretical physicist Stephen Hawking said it’s the egg that came first.
However, it was discovered in 2010 that eggs cannot be produced without a protein called Ovocleidin-17.
This protein, meanwhile, is produced by chickens, which appears to support the stance that the winged, grown birds are first to exist on earth.
Still, this is emphasized to be inconclusive, leaving the mystery unsolved in millennia.
Hens begin laying eggs about 18 to 21 weeks (nearly 6 months) after their own hatching.
It is important to learn, however, that they are able to produce eggs even without the presence of a rooster.
It takes about a day for one hen to make an egg, and she is able to produce another an hour or less later.
But for a hen to produce fertile, hatchable eggs, a rooster will be necessary.
Roosters reach sexual maturity in about 4 to 5 months of age and can remain fertile for years.
The egg-laying process begins with a small gland located near the hen’s eye.
This gland is photosensitive; light triggers the release of eggs.
A fully-formed egg is pushed through muscular contraction.
It goes out through the same channel as the hen’s waste, but there’s nothing to worry here.
Only one canal access is allowed to the vent every time.
Eggs come in consistent shape as they follow the form of the hen’s uterus.
This might be disturbing, but chickens, sometimes, eat eggs.
This happens mostly when an egg is broken by accident.
For human consumption, eggs should be gathered daily and refrigerated quickly to ensure freshness.
Chickens That Lay Blue Eggs
Araucanas, Ameraucanas and Cream Legbars are three breeds of chicken that lay blue eggs.
This hue is caused by a pigment called oocyanin (sometimes called oocyan) which goes through the shell.
This pigment is a by-product of bile production. As a result, the shell will be blue inside and outside.
Interestingly, researchers have found that blue eggs actually happened because of a harmless retrovirus.
It is said to be a 500-year-old mutation that began in South America and China, which explains why some breeds in areas of both regions produce such eggs to date.
This particular virus, called EAV-HP, mixes its own genetic data into the host through a backward process; it uses its RNA to create DNA that is later integrated into the host’s DNA.
Nevertheless, the occurrence of blue eggs must not be treated as a rare occasion or a supernatural event.
Color has little to do with nutrition, as blue eggs contain approximately as much cholesterol as other eggs.
Each contain about 185 milligram of cholesterol, which supplies around 60% of the total amount recommended for healthy adults daily.
It is said that blue eggs will not raise blood cholesterol levels significantly; saturated and trans fats have greater effect on one’s total and “bad” cholesterol.
Chickens Hatchery
In essence, a chicken hatchery is a haven for hatching and incubating eggs.
In general, hatcheries are developed to serve different purposes – from ensuring food supply to maintaining conservation.
For live, young animals, these environments function as “nurseries”, becoming their home until they are ready to be moved to other locations.
Chicken hatcheries are often manned by veterinarians and biologists, supervising workers who do most of the ground work.
Activities include safe and proper handling of eggs, monitoring of incubation and provision of nutrition, water and extra needs to older chickens, among others.
Hatcheries must remain sanitary at all times, to ensure the health of the eggs, birds and humans within.
Starting a chicken hatchery is among the many routes of poultry production.
It can be difficult, but with the right information, hardwork and patience, it can be a good source of income.
Caring for the parent flock is perhaps the earliest consideration to keep in mind, alongside a well-planned financial management system.
Note that chicken hatcheries need not be limited to chickens, as it can also house other types of poultry birds such as turkeys and ducks.
While sanitary principles may be the same, care for these other birds will require different procedures.
As a staple food source, chickens have certainly become part of our lives, providing nourishment to many parts of the world.
Because their life is essentially a cycle, proper care must be consistent, whether it’s for a grown chicken or a hatching egg.
When one finds value in both, whichever came first will no longer matter.
The beauty of these birds, after all, is enough to be thankful for.
Keeping Chickens: Tips for a Healthy Brood
Whether you are keeping chickens for eggs, as pets, or for meat, there are easy things you can do to keep them healthy, clean and safe.
Let’s take a look at 10 tips for keeping chickens safe from predators and healthy all year long.
Keeping Chickens Safe From Predators
Throughout the day, your chickens should be secured within a fenced area with at least a 7-foot high enclosure.
Although not always practical, it’s best if they’re at least semi-monitored whenever they’re out of the coop.
Before dusk, you should round up your chickens, count them and secure them for the night.
During night hours, your chickens should remain in a durable and completely enclosed coop.
You’ll want more than a single layer of chicken wire to secure your fowl.
Use a 1-inch thick wire mesh around areas that are not solid.
Be especially mindful of raccoons as you enclose your chickens, as they have tiny agile hands that can stretch into narrow spaces.
Keeping Chickens
Housing Your Chickens
Whether you raise your own chickens for their fresh eggs, to make up healthy chicken recipes or as beloved pets, you want them healthy, happy and safe.
You’ll want to make sure you have a sturdy chicken coop that’s easy to clean, sheltered from the elements and secure from predators.
Concrete is ideal for the flooring, as it’s simplest to clean.
Keep Your Chicken Coop Clean and Poop-Free
The frequency of cleaning depends on a few factors such as the number of chickens in the coop and the size of the coop.
To reduce the chances of spreading illness from chicken to chicken, you’ll want to clean the poop from your chicken coop at least three times a week. And spot clean if needed daily.
Use gloves, with a broom, shovel or bucket to clear away chicken feces from the coop as needed.
Make it a point to at least eyeball the coop daily.
And make a plan to deep clean your chicken coop twice a year.
Age-Specific Feed For Your Chicks
You may already know the basics for caring for livestock, but one thing you might not know is that, just like you, your chickens need certain nutrition to stay healthy.
And chickens need different nutrition at different stages of their lives.
Baby chicks especially should have a specialized diet called a start or grower diet until at least 5 months old.
This feed is high in fat and protein for their growth needs.
You should feed your chickens a diet of pellet or crushed feed specifically designed to meet their nutritional requirements.
You should feed them daily and allow them to eat as much as they want.
Laying hens have extremely high demands for protein, calcium, and vitamins because of the energy it takes for this task.
Use a special “laying” diet for your hens.
The beauty behind having laying hens is you don’t have to worry about what the egg cartons mean when they claim to be cage-free, free-range, pasture-raised or organic.
You know exactly where your eggs are coming from.
Feed For Non-Laying Hens and Cocks
While your egg-laying hens need high calcium for their job, cocks and non-laying hens will not benefit from the same diet.
Cocks and non-laying hens need what’s called a maintenance diet.
It’s much lower in calcium than the laying diet.
If you have trouble finding a maintenance feed, you can use some of the laying feed in conjunction with fresh vegetables and fruits and 20-25% scratch of corn or seeds.
Foods You Should Avoid Feeding Your Chickens Completely
The following foods can be harmful and even toxic to your chickens.
Raw or Dried Beans
These contain a toxin that will kill your chicken, and there’s no saving them.
Keep your chickens clear of any bean plants because they’ll nip at anything in sight.
Moldy Foods
This one can be hit or miss, but just don’t test it.
Be sure to clear out any foods from your chicken’s feeding area left over from the previous day.
Avocado
Although parts of the avocado may be okay in moderation, this is one you probably want to avoid altogether.
Just don’t do it.
Green Tomatoes and Green Potatoes
These have toxins that will kill your chickens in even small amounts.
Green potatoes can be harmful to human health, as well.
Citrus
Do not feed your chicks or chickens any citrus fruits, including citrus seeds and peels.
Chocolate
Chocolate contains caffeine and theobromine, both of which aren’t good for your chickens.
Tiny pieces may not have adverse effects, but best to keep your chickens from all chocolate.
This especially goes for dark varieties, as this has the highest content of caffeine and theobromine.
Healthy Wandering Environment
When keeping chickens, you want them to be able to get good exercise and fresh air.
Your chicken coop should be well-ventilated, spacious and insulated for warmth during the cold months.
Allot at least 9 square feet per chicken.
Keep chicken toys available for them, such as handmade tunnels, chicken swings or CDs hanging on strings for them to play with.
Remember, chickens will try to eat just about anything left in their line of sight.
Keep gasoline, oil, screws, fertilizer, bits of wire and pesticides away from your chicken’s play area.
Rooster Per 9 Hens
If you’re wanting to mate your chickens to produce offspring, you really only need one cock for every 9-10 hens.
Roosters do tend to be noisy and territorial, so you probably don’t want to have any more than you have to for the job.
Keeping Chickens Disease-Free
You’ll want to pay close attention to your chicken’s physical appearance and energy levels.
This will help you get a sense of what each chicken’s “baseline” is in terms of wellness and illness.
Watch your chicken’s weight and sift through feathers to check for parasites or feathers falling out.
Notice any sneezing or appetite changes, as well.
Keeping Your Chickens Healthy All Year Long
Whether you’re wanting fresh eggs, tender meat or pet chickens, you’ll want to keep them happy, healthy and safe.
Did you know 1% of urban dwellers own chickens on less than 1 acre of land and another 4% plan to join this poultry trend in the next 5 years?
This may not appear very high at first glance.
But when you consider the crowded environment of the city and the compact feel of side-by-side housing, 5% can seem quite high.
It can be difficult to keep your chickens healthy and happy under these conditions.
But it can be done.
For more tips and information on keeping chickens and other livestock, check us out at Rural Living Today.
Water Your Backyard Chickens – As the proud owner of backyard chickens, you know there are certain responsibilities that go along with the title of “keeper.”
If you don’t want to buy a chicken watering system and you have a do-it-yourself mindset, you can make your own.
Here are three different DIY watering devices for watering backyard chickens.
Watering Systems and Ideas to Water Backyard Chickens
DIY chicken watering systems
Many chicken owners like to add just a few drops of apple cider vinegar to their chickens’ water to prevent parasites and help with calcium absorption.
It also helps deter algae growth.
A food grade bucket will be less likely to break down when exposed to vinegar.
Simple “No Frills” DIY Chicken Watering System
This is the easiest and least expensive watering system to build of all the devices here.
You can also improvise freely using many different materials and get the same results.
You will need for DIY Chicken Watering Station:
1 empty #10 can
1 pie pan or sturdy plastic container
Here is how DIY Chicken Watering Station works:
Drill a small hole near the open end of the can.
Fill the can with water.
Place the pie pan on top of the #10 can.
Turn the whole thing over.
The pie pan will fill with water until the water is level with the hole.
DIY Chicken Watering Station
You can also use a plastic bottle.
Place a small hole near the bottom of the plastic bottle.
Glue the plastic bottle to the pie plate.
You can use a sandwich or similar food storage container.
Fill the plastic bottle from the top.
Water will drain from the bottom until the water in the food container covers the hole in the plastic bottle.
A one gallon bucket with or without a lid also works well.
If you use a bottle, keep it out of the sunlight as much as possible as sunlight encourages algae growth.
Also, be aware of the potential of freezing in winter.
2-5 Gallon Bucket
This DIY watering system for chickens uses a two or five gallon bucket.
Because these buckets have handles you can hang this device up by its handle or even set it on a low shelf or some bricks so the watering cups are off the ground.
You can also drill holes into the bottom of the bucket and substitute chicken nipples for chicken watering cups.
DIY watering system for chickens Hacks
Make sure to use a dark colored bucket to hinder algae growth.
You should also make sure the bucket is made from good quality/food grade plastic to prevent chemicals from leaching into the water.
If you live in a climate where cold weather is a possibility, check on your watering system regularly to ensure that the cups or nipples have not frozen.
PVC Pipe Watering System
This system will make watering you birds a breeze.
No bending, or moving the device.
You will just be able to put water into the top.
As long as you keep the device closed, the water should stay free of contaminants.
When you keep your chickens occupied and happy, they are less likely to peck at one another.
Chicken swings introduce activity, exercise and recreation for your brood.
We like to think of it as hen-tertainment.
Best Chicken Swings
When we bought these swings, our kids thought these were the best things ever.
They were as excited as if the swings were for them! Our family and neighbors have enjoyed watching our chickens swing and play.
The Chicken Swing – Fowl Play Products
This is the first chicken swing we installed, and it remains everyone’s (people and chicken’s) favorite.
It’s sturdy and well-built, bright and colorful.
The Chicken Swing is made from plastic and rope, and holds up well in all types of climates.
It was easy to mount.
It’s adjustable for any coop size.
Like with all these swings, you will want to be sure there’s enough space for it to swing freely so it’s safe.
We first installed this swing when we had chicks.
This is key.
You will have much more success with chickens using this when they are adults if they start when they are young.
We made sure it was very low, about an inch off the ground.
The chicks were able to get used to it while they were young, energetic and curious.
As they grew, we raised the swing to 3 – 4″ off the ground.
They still enjoy it to this day.
A concern for all chicken swings is the risk of injury during a vigorous dismount.
The Chicken Swing comes with a fully adjustable cross-member which keeps the swing from twisting when the chickens dismount.
Depending on the area in which you hang it, when the hens have gotten used to it, you may want to put it high enough off the ground so the other chickens can be near it and under it safely, even when it’s swinging.
Best chicken toys Chicken Swings
Two solid poly-pro ropes support the swing.
The perch is shaped like a small mailbox, with a corn-like surface the chickens can grip.
Pros of The Chicken Swing
UV and weather-resistant rope
Easy-to-install rope buckle makes it easy to adjust the height.
Safety side ties
Easy for chicks and chickens to grip and stay on.
Chickens can use it as a perch and a swing.
The perch tongues allow the swing to have more torque, so the chickens can swing easily.
It’s plastic — not wood — so it won’t warp.
It’s easy to clean.
Cons of The Chicken Swing (and all chicken swings)
Some chickens might be afraid of the swing so you may have to train them yourself
You may have better success with your chickens using the swing when you set it up when they are chicks or pullets.
Healthy Chicken Swing Perch
This is a simply chicken swing. It is very easy to install.
Like all chicken swings, its purpose is to keep chickens happy, active and entertained.
Chicken enthusiasts have even built DIY chicken swings to allow them some time to exercise and play.
Building an A-frame, otherwise known as a chicken gym, out of some leftover wood and some nails will keep them active and engaged with one another as they climb up and down the rungs.
If you don’t have the room or materials you can build chicken perches as a diversion.
Chickens also love shiny objects.
You can putting a small mirror — away from the glare of the sun — in a chicken coop.
It will provide hours of enjoyment for curious cluckers.
Chickens who are stimulated and happy with life are calm, curious creatures who do not wish to harm themselves or other animals around them.
When they are not stimulated, however, they tend to act out in frustration and aggression.
They will target the weaker members of the flock.
It is a stressful situation for animals and owners alike and should be avoided at all costs.
Finding some DIY chicken projects to provide them stimulation will ensure that you keep animal aggression at bay.
Chickens are active, intelligent animals, and it is up to us as their caretakers to provide a quality of life experience — one that is pleasing for them and joyful for us.
If you have been a regular viewer of America’s Got Talent, you would have seen this in its full effect.
There was a chicken in the finals who played the piano!
Providing chickens opportunities to play, socialize, exercise and run will ensure you have done them a service by providing the best life for them.
Raise Backyard Chickens Hacks – The trend of raising backyard chickens is catching up and for a very good reason.
Producing your own food is a good way to cut expenses and also reduce your exposure to chemicals used in commercialized food production.
People who raise backyard chickens are those that would want to maximize their unused outdoor space and in a way control a small part of their food source.
It is a praiseworthy effort that can produce great results for the whole family.
However, raising chickens can take a considerable amount of work and will demand time from those who want to pursue it.
Having fresh eggs every morning from your own chickens is deeply satisfying.
A basket full of still-warm fresh eggs is not only nutritious, it also a safer food source and it tastes way better than eggs you buy from the supermarket.
Food source
At the end of their productive life as egg layers, chicken can be cooked and provide the family with an organic source of protein-rich meat.
Since your chickens are considered “free range” they also have leaner meat, healthier than the ones you buy from the grocery store.
Fertilizer
The droppings of the chicken can also be a good natural fertilizer.
If you also have a vegetable patch in your backyard then you can use the processed droppings as fertilizer.
You now have a very efficient food source in your backyard that is self sustaining.
Garden benefits
Chickens are also natural gardeners.
They love to dig and scratch around which is great for your compost heaps.
They can also clear your vegetable garden beds after you harvest as they love to nibble on unwanted weeds and fertilize the soil in the process.
Insect control
Chickens will help control bugs and insects in your backyard.
They eat snails, grasshoppers, and other known garden pests.
They also eat fallen fruits so flies will have no reason to visit your property.
Family fun
Chickens are fun pets for you and even for your kids because they are innately friendly.
Chickens have personality believe it or not and this makes them fun to look at while they play around the coop.
The cost of having chickens in the backyard is very low.
It is important for you to realize that buying chicks is cheaper than buying mature hens.
The downside of this option is that you have to wait a longer time (around 5-6 months) before these chicks can lay eggs.
The cost difference is almost half when you decide to raise the chicks first.
This is great for families with young kids as the children can really appreciate the chickens because they have the chance to see the chicks grow to adulthood.
Raise Backyard Chickens Coop
What are the expected expenses of raising chickens in the backyard?
The first expense is of course the cost of the chicken which varies depending on the breed, age, and other factors.
This can cost you nothing if you know a little bit of carpentry and you decide to use recycled materials.
However fancy coops that are ready to use can be very expensive, into the thousands, but the average cost of coops is less than a thousand.
Monthly costs can include feeds and other miscellaneous expenses.
If you go for buying chicks you also need to purchase a brooder.
Most families who raise chickens make their own brooder with Rubbermaid container or packing cases.
The size would depend on the number of chicks you decide to raise.
1 square foot of space is needed for each chick.
Consider this computation as you decide on your brooder choices.
You also need to buy waterers and feeders for the brooder and the coop when the chicks are mature enough to be moved to their permanent home.
It is less expensive to raise chickens than a pet dog or cat, plus you will have fresh eggs every morning when the chickens start to lay eggs.
This can offset some of the costs you incurred in raising the chickens in your backyard.
Caring for backyard chickens
Depending on the decision to raise chicks or matured chickens, you need to learn the basics of taking care of both to make sure that the chickens can grow to maturity and they can have a healthy, long life, producing as much eggs as they can for you.
If you plan to raise chicks, ensure you make time for them; you will need several weeks.
Chicks need constant attention so you cannot be not around in this early stage of their lives.
Make sure that you have a place for them to grow and mature until they can live in the chicken coop.
Brooder
You need to have a brooder and a source of heat, preferably a 250 watt infrared light that can provide up to 95 degrees of ambient temperature.
Know you will need to regulate and reduce the temperature by 5 degrees each week until the chicks are ready to move outside to the chicken coop.
Make sure you install a chick feeder and waterer in the brooder.
Be sure that the brooder also has the right kind of absorbent bedding.
Many would opt for the newspaper or paper towels but these are not simply absorbent enough considering the high volume of poop chicks can produce in a day.
The most ideal would be pine shavings about an inch thick.
It is easier to manage pine shavings.
Pine shavings also help to control odor and to eradicate the risk of the chicks slipping which is common in newspaper-lined brooders.
For matured chickens there are fewer pointers to worry about.
Make sure that the chickens have enough cool water and food.
You can now leave the chickens for longer periods of time provided that the feeders and waterers could last them for the number of days you are not around.
Make sure that the water is clean.
Chickens do not like dirty water and would refuse to drink if this is the case.
A dehydrated chicken can easily die so be mindful of this always.
Always be in the lookout for weak looking chickens.
