Backyard Chickens and Roosters

Last Updated on May 1st, 2019

Incubation for Beginners – Hatching your own chickens can be an educational and rewarding experience and with the right equipment and some best practices you can be on your way to having backyard chickens in no time.

Incubation allows backyard poultry enthusiasts to hatch chickens and ensure the eggs are developing correctly in a controlled environment.

Incubators are able to control the temperature, humidity and turn the eggs automatically making the egg hatching process stress-free.

While you can incubate eggs any time of the year, spring is considered the best time to raise chickens because of the warmer weather which is ideal for new chicks.

If you’re considering hatching your own flock of backyard chickens, (Best Nutrition Plan for Healthy Chickens) here are a few tips that will make egg hatching a success.

Incubation for Beginners by Brinsea, Inc.

Choose a good incubator

To find a quality incubator, we recommend looking at the functionality.

Does it have an accurate temperature control?

Can it be cleaned easily?

Can turning the eggs be done automatically?

You’ll also want to look at the sizing.

For example, how many eggs, and what type of eggs does a specific incubator hold?

Especially as a beginner, these are important qualities to look for in an incubator to ensure yourself the best possible chance at successful hatching.

Also, read the reviews, and don’t be afraid to ask questions, either to the manufacturer directly or in online social spaces.

Getting the Eggs

Once you’ve decided on the right incubator for your situation, you’ll need to find fertilized eggs.

If you already have hens and a rooster then you are good to go.

If you don’t have a rooster, then it’s always best to source your fertilized eggs locally because they will be fresher and their chances of hatching won’t be affected by shipping.

Setting Up Your Incubator

Before setting the eggs in the incubator, read through the incubator’s manual to ensure everything is working properly.

An important step to note is to make sure the eggs are at room temperature before setting them.

Once eggs have reached room temperature, place them in the incubator on their side or pointed end down and do not adjust the temperature for 24 hours.

Importance of Temperature and Humidity

In order for the fertilized eggs to develop correctly, they need to be kept at the correct temperature and turned often and positioned in the right way.

Humidity is also crucial because eggs breathe and lose water through the pores of the shell.

Small changes in temperatures can cause eggs to develop too fast or too slow which could result in deaths or deformities.

The correct temperature for most species when incubating is 99.5°F when using a forced draft incubator.

However, there are incubators without fans and if you are using one, the temperature should be set at 103°F because hot air rises.

No matter the incubator, room temperature should always be between 68°F and 78°F and kept out of direct sunlight to get the best results.

Incorrect humidity is one of the main causes for poor hatching success because it is the most difficult to measure and control accurately.

Humidity is important only to achieve the right balance between excessive dehydration and space within the egg to allow the chick to maneuver into hatching position.

Humidity is affected by evaporation from the eggs themselves and the incubator water reservoirs.

All incubators have water reservoirs and ventilation holes, some have digital humidity displays and ventilation controls.

Humidity levels are measured in % Relative Humidity (% RH).

Ideal humidity during incubation is 40-50% RH for poultry and game birds and 45-55% for waterfowl.

If the humidity is too high, you will need to increase the ventilation or if the incubator does not have a ventilation control, remove water.

Conversely, if humidity is too low, you will need to reduce ventilation and add water.

Humidity at hatching time needs to be higher than during incubation, at least 60% RH to prevent the membranes of the egg drying too fast as the chick hatches and becoming tough and difficult to tear.

Turn, Turn, Turn

Positioning and turning the eggs is important for egg development because as the embryo develops on the yolk, it causes the yolk to become lighter and float upwards.

When the egg is turned, the embryo moves downwards into fresh nutrients in white of the egg allowing the embryo to develop.

Note that most modern incubators turn the eggs automatically.

Using an incubator with this automatic feature is the best way to ensure the eggs are turned consistently and accurately.

However, if you are turning eggs manually, mark each egg with and X on one side and O on the other with a pencil.

This helps with remembering what side they need to be turned to.

This should be done a minimum of twice a day, to prevent the embryo sticking to the sides of the shell.

Turning should be stopped two days prior to when the chicks are scheduled to hatch.

Certain models with the automatic turning setting will also stop turning the eggs two days before they are due.

Incubation Period

An incubation period varies between birds but for chickens, it takes 21 days.

To check on the state of the embryo, the candling method is used.

In the past, people would use candles to shine on the eggs to see how the development process was going.

Now we are able to use LED lights which don’t emit heat.

Eggs can be candled after 5 days of incubation and every few days after that. For best results, light the eggs in a dark room.

Initially, you will be able to see a small embryo and a web of blood vessels radiating from it.

As the chick grows it will be hard to make out detail but you should be able to see movement.

However, if the egg is infertile it will remain clear and eggs that have died will show a dark ring.

Time to Hatch

Two days before the eggs are due to hatch, you should stop turning and make sure the water reservoirs are filled.

Humidity will need to be higher than normal so it’s important not to open the incubator.

It will take about 24 hours or more from the first bump on the shell until the chicks fully hatch.

After the chicks have hatched and are fully fluffed, transfer them to a brooder where they can stay warm.

This experience is very exciting so enjoy watching how your eggs develop and have fun.

For more information on incubators and chicken hatching, visit www.brinsea.com.

Last Updated on May 1st, 2019

Chicken feed – chickens like people, really only need one thing to get by: a consistent source of nutrition they can depend on.

Mealtimes are central to a healthy and fulfilling life.

With that in mind, as a chicken owner, what your birds eat is the beginning and end of almost all of your problems.

A proper diet can prevent things like illnesses, obesity, agitation, and premature death.

Moreover, it means your chicken will live a healthy life.

And, ultimately, isn’t that what really matters the most?

Join us, today, as we discover some of the best options available for feeding your precious chickens.

Feed Your Chickens The Right Way

Your chickens are an investment, whether emotional, financial, ethical or a little bit of all three.

It’s important you take care of them, and, next to housing them, the most important part of their healthcare is their diet.

Let’s take a closer look at some of the best ways for you to feed your flock.

Pellets For Laying Hens

There’s no chicken who works harder than a laying hen.

Laying hens have specially-designed commercial pellets and crumbles, designed to maintain their nutrients.

While laying, hens should be fed these pellets on a daily basis, in order to stay in good health.

If hens have access to food all day long, they’re more likely to store excess pellets in their crop, just before bed.

This food, then, can be digested overnight, while they sleep.

With these overnight nutrients coursing through their little bodies, they’re more

With these nutrients coursing through their bodies overnight, they’re more likely to produce eggs daily.

Grits And Oyster Shells

Grits and oyster shells are considered a standard among chicken owners.

Tiny rocks that chickens eat and swallow, these grits are essential in the digestion process for these birds.

Without them, their absorption of nutrients can be slowed, leading to potential complications.

Variety is the spice of life, and chickens appreciate it as well.

In spite of the calcium in commercial chicken feed, it’s important for your birds to get it from a few different sources.

Start with a feeder full of coarse, broken up oyster shells.

The calcium deposits in this will go a long way towards strengthening their bones and beaks.

Both grits and oyster grindings should be offered to chickens as free range feed.

Vegetables and Table Scraps

You can call chickens a lot of things, but shy eaters isn’t one of them.

The standard-sized hen has it in her to eat between a quarter and a third of a pound of pellets in any given day.

But they shouldn’t only be eating pellets.

It’s crucial to make sure your chicken enjoys a varied and nutritious diet.

Cutoffs, leftovers, old vegetables and other table scraps are all foods that any chicken or hen would be happy to finish off on your behalf.

Think laterally about what you give your laying hens:

coffee grounds might not seem worth the trouble to you, but can add nutrients and variety to their diet.

Compost, stalks, weeds and bruised or partially bug-eaten vegetables are all good candidates.

Free-Ranging

A good way to regulate your chicken’s diet and make sure they’re not being forced on any particular food is to come up with free-range options.

Cut a large vegetable in half and hang it up in their cage.

Leave a bowl full of compost in the freezer overnight and have the chickens peck at the frozen mound to get the food they want.

Treats

Chickens are, by their nature, very animated animals, and there’s no time you’ll see them wilder than upon receiving a treat.

You’ve got to be careful with what you feed them, and how much.

Chickens can get fat, but, more than that, they can get sick. 

Dole out cracked corn with caution.

They love this treat, but it constitutes nothing but empty calories.

Not only is this bad for them, but it can also lead to problems with their egg laying.

Similarly, sunflower seeds are a nice treat for birds, but should be given out in moderation, and never with the shell on.

Apples, pears and other fruits work quite well as well.

Something to keep in mind, when it comes to the question of bird treats, is whether they encourage behavior among your chickens.

Large bricks of bird treats sit in one place in a coop or cage, where chickens go over to peck at them.

This means your birds are learning to sit tight and wait for food to come to them, without scratching, walking, or working in any way to get it.

Not only that, but they also tend to attract rodents. These are, by and large, best to be avoided.

All in all, with birds as with people.

Everything is better in moderation.

Train your chickens to understand the sound of a shaking jar full of sunflower seeds to be something that happens from time to time.

A teaspoon of meal-worms is more than enough protein for any bird.

Keep your coop stocked with enough compost to foster the natural occurrence of grubs and bugs, for birds to peck at.

Fresh Water for Chickens

Often an afterthought, access to fresh water is actually the single most important part of your chicken’s diet.

In order to keep dirt and grime out of the water, put it somewhere elevated off of the ground, and clean out the bowl weekly.

You’ll notice your chickens tend to prefer muddy water puddles, but, much like children, they need someone who knows better to take care of them.

Never underestimate how important water is.

If your chickens don’t drink, for whatever reason, they can expire and die within 24 hours.

A Note On Feeding Chicks

Young chicks are dependent on you to feed them, especially in the first few days of their life.

Feed should be finely ground, containing no more than 18% protein.

This specialized chick feed should be administered for 14 to 18 weeks before they shift over to adult food.

Finally, make sure not to feed them any additives or products that promise to promote or speed up their growth.

These are almost always used in growing meat birds, and the resultant spurt in their muscle growth is not healthy for them.

Change The Way You Use Your Chicken Feed

Taking care of your chickens is a 24-hour-a-day process.

You need to make sure you’re feeding them properly, or their health can take a turn for the worse, quickly.

Whether you go for organic, high-fat, hand-made or store bought, a little nutrition goes a long way.

Make sure you don’t over-stuff your birds on fatty foods, and always keep their well-being in mind during mealtimes.

Interested in learning more about bird rearing, rural living, and sustainable lifestyle tips?

You can learn more about modern homesteading by paying us a small visit, today.

Feeding Chickens: What They Need at Different Stages

Did you know chickens today are almost five times bigger than their 1957 counterparts?

A Canadian study shows this isn’t because they’ve been tanked up with hormones or other size-enhancing drugs.

The research concluded that it’s because we’ve bred chickens to be bigger over the years by giving preference to the larger ones.

So, it’s still a good idea to follow feeding guidelines for your chickens based on their age and stage in life.

Let’s take a look at how feeding chickens according to their stage can make all the difference.

The Early Chick Stage

The early chick stage refers to the time between birth and about 8 weeks.

Just as a growing infant needs certain nutrients to develop a healthy and strong body, so does a chick.

During this stage of life, chicks need what’s called a starter feed or starter crumble.

This feed must contain at least 15% protein for the developing chicks.

Medicated Diet

Medicated starter feed contains amproleum, which works to safeguards chicks from a fatal intestinal illness called coccidiosis.

This illness is contracted through contact with feces.

This is why it’s important to keep your chicken coop from becoming too crowded and unclean.

Warm, humid weather makes for a moist environment and is a breeding ground for coccidiosis.

There is a coccidiosis vaccine.

If your chicks have been vaccinated, it’s best not to choose the unmediated diet.

Unmedicated Diet

Unmedicated starter feed simply doesn’t have amproleum in it.

This is best used if you’re at all unsure of whether your chicks have been vaccinated.

The Middle Chick Stage

The middle chick stage ranges from 8 to 18 weeks old.

Think of this as your chicken’s teen years.

This is when grower feed comes into play.

The grower feed cuts the protein down from the starter feed during the early stage.

The protein content is about 15-17% and requires grit along with it.

If you continue your chicks on a high protein diet, it can push them into laying eggs sooner than their bodies are ready for.

Think of a 14-year-old girl who gets pregnant.

Not a good situation.

Laying Hens

When chicks reach 18-20 weeks, they may be prepared to start laying eggs.

For your laying hens, you can choose the pellet, crumble or mash versions of layer feed.

Layer feed has vital calcium for eggshell production.

The layer feed uses 15-17% protein with additional calcium for strong eggshells.

Even though there’s extra calcium, your laying hens will benefit from crumbled oyster shells presented in a separate bowl from the layer feed.

Laying hens will only ever eat as many oyster shells as they need.

This helps ensure your hens don’t become depleted of calcium.

Note that layer feed should never be given to chickens under 18 weeks of age.

This is because the excess calcium can damage the kidneys, cause kidney stones to develop and can decrease the bird’s overall lifespan.

Non-Laying Hens and Roosters

A maintenance diet is necessary for non-laying hens and roosters.

This chicken feed still has the nutrients and vitamins that laying feed does, without the added calcium.

The maintenance diet can be accompanied by chicken scratch.

Scratch is composed of various grains, one of which is typically cracked corn.

And it’s very high in calories.

Scratch should be used infrequently and in small amounts.

Feeding Chicken Snacks

The occasional treat for your chickens is fine.

And they’ll love you for it.

Just make sure not to allow them to indulge too often.

Keep the snacks down to every couple days.

Chicken Treats

• Pumpkin rinds
• Mealworms
• Oatmeal balls
• Leftovers from dinner

And, since chickens don’t have teeth, remember to provide grit to help them digest these snacks.

Grit is made from sand or small pieces of stone.

Steer Clear of These Foods When Feeding Chickens

There are some foods that are toxic to your chickens and should be avoided at all cost.

• Avocado seeds and skin
• Dried beans
• Unripe tomatoes
• Green-tinted potatoes
• Cocoa
• Any food with mold on it

Chickens Will Eat Anything

Remember, even though chickens can be cute and lovable, they’re not the brightest of the bunch.

They’ll eat just about anything.

So, be mindful of what’s in their exercise area.

Especially watch for small plastic toys, nails, coins or bits of wire.

Joint Feeding Times

When you have a situation where you’ve many different age groups, don’t despair.

These circumstances aren’t optimal, but they’re also quite common.

In this situation, it’s best to provide an un-medicated grower/starter diet, along with available calcium such as crushed oyster shells or eggshells.

Don’t forget to put the calcium supplement in a separate bowl to allow the hens to determine the amount they need.

This is the best solution because the extra protein won’t harm the older chickens.

But the excessive calcium in layer feed can harm the developing kidneys of younger birds.

Open Versus Restricted Feeding

Chickens are generally grazers and only eat when they know they need to.

For this reason, a free or open feeding schedule is best.

This gives your chickens the freedom to meet their own hunger needs and at their leisure.

Food Crisis

In the event of a food crisis on your farm or in your wallet, where you just don’t have access to the nutrient-rich diet mentioned above, do the best you can.

For instance, if you can’t afford or don’t have access to crushed oyster shells, feel free to use crushed eggshells.

While it’s ideal to be able to afford feeder and supplements for your chickens, you can make do with alternatives.

And remember, the most crucial of all diets when feeding chickens is the laying hen’s diet.

Her task is strenuous and exhausting.

She needs all the calcium and protein she can get.

Feeding Chickens at Different Stages

When feeding chickens, you want to make sure you’re tailoring their diet to meet their specific needs.

They’re omnivores and just like us, they need balanced nutrition to keep them strong.

For more tips and information on how to raise your animals to be their healthiest, check out our post on caring for livestock.

Last Updated on May 1st, 2019

Chicken diseases – Do you have a backyard flock of chickens?

There are lots of benefits of keeping chickens.

However, in order to be a responsible chicken owner, you have to make sure they stay healthy.

Otherwise, they could stop laying altogether.

This means preventing contraction of diseases, treating them when they occur, and possibly even culling chickens when they’re in danger of spreading dangerous infections.

In this article, we’ll tell you all about the most common chicken diseases, how to spot them, and how to treat them if you find them in your coop.

Fowl Pox

This disease is usually not deadly, but is known to take the lives of young or particularly weak chickens.

It usually lasts 10-14 days in a bird, but can take up to 6 weeks to eradicate from a flock.

Symptoms of Fowl Pox

White spots on the skin, Comb sores, Mouth or trachea ulcers and Laying stops.

It can be contracted from other contaminated chickens, but is also carried by mosquitoes.

Fowl Pox can be treated with Vitamin supplements, particularly Vitamins A, D and E. During treatment, chickens need to eat soft food in order to allow the mouth ulcers to heal.

They also need a warm and dry place to rest.

In order to avoid this disease, it’s best to get your chickens vaccinated.

Botulism

Botulism is one of the most serious chicken diseases there is, as the symptoms progress very quickly and the death rate is very high.

It’s caused by contamination of food or water by rotting meat, and most commonly occurs in summer and fall, when temperatures are warm enough for the bacteria to thrive.

This illness is not passed on from bird to bird, but can affect an entire flock if they all share the same source of food and water.

Symptoms of Botulism

Weakness and nervousness, Tremors or shaking, Feathers are easy to pull out.

Paralysis of the legs, which progresses to the wings and neck before a chicken then suddenly dies.

If the disease is caught early enough, it can be treated with an antitoxin by a vet.

However, a home remedy of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed with 1 oz of warm water given daily with a dropper can also work.

Infectious Bronchitis

Infectious Bronchitis is a common chicken disease in backyard flocks.

This is because most wild flocks develop a resistance to it from increased exposure.

Symptoms of Infectious Bronchitis

Decrease in eating and drinking

Discharge from eyes and nostrils

Coughing, gasping or loud breathing

Decreased egg laying

Misshapen or soft-shelled eggs

Sluggishness

Chickens can be vaccinated against infectious bronchitis.

However, this doesn’t guarantee that they won’t be infected.

Instead, it just decreases the chance of contracting it.

If you notice any symptoms, you’ll need to act quickly.

This viral disease is known to spread quickly and can kill entire flocks if left untreated.

There is no specific treatment for Infectious bronchitis, but some chicken owners report having success with herbal remedies.

Infectious Coryza

This bacterial disease infects the eyes or nose and is highly infectious.

Symptoms of Infectious Coryza

Swollen head or face

Sneezing

Coughing

Discharge from eyes and nostrils

Reluctance to eat or drink

Breathing difficulties

Ceased laying

Staggering

This chicken disease is usually treated with antibiotics.

However, if it has progressed past the point of treatment, infected chickens should be put down to avoid passing the disease on to the rest of the flock.

Unfortunately, there is no vaccine against infectious coryza.

Pullorum

This disease is viral and can, therefore, be contracted through contact with other infected birds as well as contaminated surfaces.

Like Chicken Pox in humans, this illness affects infant and adults differently.

Symptoms of Pullorum

Sneezing, coughing and poor laying in adult birds.

Breathing difficulties, low activity and a white paste on the backsides of chicks.

There is currently no vaccine against Pullorum, so the best way to protect against it is to be aware of the signs and symptoms, then put down any chickens that contract the disease.

Avian Influenza

Avian Influenza is the most commonly-known chicken disease, also known as Bird Flu.

There have been some fears surrounding this illness, as bird flu outbreaks in the news are common, and people are concerned about contracting bird flu themselves.

However, with the correct care, this shouldn’t be a problem.

Symptoms of Avian Influenza

Respiratory problems, Diarhhea, Swelling of the face, Discolored comb or wattle and Red spots on the legs.

When a chicken contracts bird flu, it will be a carrier of the disease for the rest of its life.

For that reason, it will have to be put down.

Some farmers have to cull entire flocks of chickens due to this particular disease.

After a cull, a coop must be completely cleaned and disinfected before any new chickens can be introduced.

Otherwise, they are at risk of contracting the illness.

Bumblefoot

This is one of the easiest to spot chicken diseases.

Unfortunately, it’s also virtually impossible to prevent.

It’s caused by a cut on the foot, which can be picked up by digging, scratching, or even just walking.

When bacteria enters the wound, it can develop into a staph infection.

This can be cause for surgery or amputation, and if left untreated, can kill a chicken.

Symptoms of Bumblefoot

Limping, Swelling and A cut or wound on the foot that refuses to heal

The best way to prevent this problem is by checking your chickens’ feet regularly.

If they get cut or scratched, disinfected the area and keep it clean and then monitor the healing process.

Keep Your Chickens Healthy and Happy

In order to prevent chicken diseases, you must keep your birds’ immune systems up.

You can do this by providing a hygienic, warm environment for them, with good quality food and a clean watering system.

To improve their quality of life, you can also provide them with toys to play with.

Like any other animal, chickens love to play.

Take a look at our post on how to entertain your backyard chickens to get some ideas for how to keep them busy.

Last Updated on May 1st, 2019

Raising healthy chickens are a staple of homesteading.

The urban farming movement and trend toward a rural lifestyle shift has spurred an increased demand.

Availability through online marketplaces has further fueled the desire and ease of raising livestock in our backyards.

Modern, healthy chickens need a larger diet because they’re bred to produce a greater volume of eggs and yield more meat.

Their environment has changed from farmhouse to the backyard.

Domestication has led to healthier, vibrant flocks. Feeding Chickens: What They Need at Different Stages

Commercial feed is an easy solution for feeding chickens but not always the best option for their nutrition.

Chickens eat plants, insects and fruits and vegetables, which make them omnivores.

It’s important to include a nutritional variety.

It’s easy to provide a sound nutritional plan to keep your backyard chickens healthy and happy.

Nutritional plan for chickens

What to feed chicks (up to 8 weeks)

Newborn chicks will need a feed that contains 18-20% protein to encourage growth and health.

The starter feed has two options (medicated and non-medicated) depending on your need to protect the chicken from diseases.

Feeding chicks:

Medicated chick feed
Non-medicated chick crumbles
Chick grit

The chicks beak is small so most starter feeds come as crumbles.

Crumbles are simply larger pellets broken down to smaller sizes.

During this time, it’s important to introduce grit into their diets to help with digestion.

Grit is stored in the gizzard and is usually sourced from when they pick at the ground.

You could supply it through sand and dirt mixed into the food.

High calcium diets are to be avoided at this age because it may cause kidney stones and reduce the lifespan of the chicken.

What to feed adolescent chickens (8 – 18 weeks)

Switch to grain that contains 16-18% protein.

Your options are called layer feed or a grower rotation.

It’s a millet containing a variety of nutritional ingredients.

Layer feed
Grit

The feed is typically in pellet form at this stage in life.

Grit will retain an important role to help with digestion and promoting healthy growth.

What to feed adult chickens (18 weeks+)

Stick with layer feed (containing 16-18% protein).

The feed at this stage will have a mix of pellets, mash, and crumbles.

Layer feed
Grit

A layer rotation is recommended for chickens beginning to lay eggs.

Calcium and grit should remain a staple of their diet though it will mostly come from their activity and feeding habits at this age.

Dos and Don’ts of Chicken Feed

You’d think it’s okay to let them “have at it” when eating but this is a detrimental approach to caring if you want healthy chickens.

Store-bought feed or mixing your own batches will provide most of what you’ll need but there are other tidbits to remember.

Chicken do’s

Offer insects, fruits, and vegetables

Supply unlimited feed for their choosing

Keep feed organized in buckets and with a feeder

Include calcium via oyster or grit

Feed extra carbs during winter

Stick to pumpkin seeds, mealworms, or veggies for snacks

Spread feed to prevent aggression while eating

Chicken don’ts

Overdo it with giving them treats

Saturate the diet with starches like bread

Give them grass and clippings

Use “scratch” as their main source of food

It’s perfectly fine to mix table scraps with pellets (within reason).

Don’t worry about invading insects because these provide a nutritious meal as well.

Those homesteading or living the rural lifestyle may desire to create a feed from scratch.

Mixing feed isn’t the best option unless you have a keen understanding of the nutritional elements.

It’s easy to misjudge ingredients and accidentally restrict your chickens from the nutrients they need.

Healthy chickens: Feed based on age

Chickens begin laying eggs at 4-6 months of age.

Their egg laying depends upon if they’re hybrid or non-hybrid.

Hybrid chickens lay earlier compared to their non-hybrid counterparts.

Domesticated chickens will typically lay eggs for 2-3 years.

Egg laying will begin to diminish as they reach later years.

Though, it’s not uncommon for older chickens to produce the occasional egg.

Exposure to sunlight will also affect their egg laying.

Fewer than 12 hours will lower their chances.

Winter months tend to show a drop-off in production.

It’s important to begin feeding chicks and chickens a balanced diet from an early age.

The balanced diet will help to improve their health and egg-laying ability.

Healthy chickens: Good environments

A chicken needs a safe, clean environment to lead a healthy life — just like us!

Chickens need the essentials:

Good food and fresh, clean water

Safe, stress-free environment

Chickens will drink from any source though it’s not the best due to bacteria and pathogens that are possibly present in the source.

Always supply clean water to the chickens and do a regular cleanup of the water source to prevent waterborne diseases.

Free-ranging chickens

The easiest way to manage the nutritional plan (and to keep them happy) is to allow chickens to free-range.

This will give them access to feed and other nutritional sources found throughout the yard.

Free-ranging becomes a hands-off experience which is beneficial for the chicken’s health.

Be aware of predators

It’s essential to safeguard their area from raccoons, coyotes, bobcat… whatever is in your area.

Enclose the top as well

Consider using traps or repellents to deter predators from entering your space.

Having a livestock guardian animal or livestock guardian dog works wonders.

Other environmental items include:

Removing hazardous, toxic items

Offering heat sources during colder months

Keeping chickens cool in the summer heat

Companionship to keep them social

Use chicken toys and chicken swings to keep them busy

Dirt mounds to prevent aggression

A clean, secure chicken coop and nesting box will suffice for the lifespan of your chickens.

Fence in the remaining sections to prevent venturing too far and exposure to hostile environments.

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Delayed laying, loss, and moving forward

Late-stage egg production provides a sign of possible illness or malnutrition.

Veterinary assistance and regular checkups will provide guidance and treatment.

Delayed laying and loss are expected when raising chickens.

Yet, it provides a beneficial experience to understand the nutritional plan and environment to improve your success when raising healthy chickens.

Chickens are a fun, rewarding challenge

Chickens are a staple for those embracing the rural lifestyle.

They are excellent to provide a food source in a food crisis or during uncertain times.

Raising chickens poses a challenge but one that’s rewarding.

The reduced reliance on supermarkets and factory farming gives you a sample of possibilities when shifting from urban to rural living.

A nutritional plan is essential for raising healthy chickens.

It does require extra effort but it’s worth it to have a happy and productive brood.

This is but one of the many things to love about this lifestyle.

Raising chickens will provide inspiration and know-how to venture into bigger and more rewarding rural lifestyle experiences.

Check out some of our other posts on raising livestock for additional inspiration and guidance.

Last Updated on May 1st, 2019

Water Your Backyard Chickens – As the proud owner of backyard chickens, you know there are certain responsibilities that go along with the title of “keeper.”

You must attend to your brood’s needs.

You must make sure they have a clean environment with fresh bedding, food and water. How To Raise Backyard Chickens

There are systems you can use to make your job easier and keep your hens content.

Having a good watering system is important.

It will save you lots of time and be healthier for your chickens.

Water Your Backyard Chickens watering systems

If you don’t want a DIY project, we love this chicken watering system.

The nipples and water won’t come in contact with the ground, making it clean and sanitary.

It’s a simple and effective system, and holds two gallons of water.

You can leave the bucket on the ground or hang it.

Four chickens and roosters can drink from it at the same time.

And, miracle of miracles, it doesn’t leak!

You can easily fill it with ice cubes on hot days.

Note with the 2 Gallon Waterer — it took our girls almost two days to get the hang of it so be sure to keep your current watering system in place.

They will quickly come to love it but you may need to train them by showing them how it works.

Once they understand, you will be so glad you have this waterer.

Open watering devices that sit on the ground can collect dirt, debris and fecal matter.

Before refilling it, you will always have to rinse it out and then fill it with fresh water.

That adds up to a lot of extra work. (restoring a Rural Backyard)

If you don’t want to buy a chicken watering system and you have a do-it-yourself mindset, you can make your own.

Here are three different DIY watering devices for watering backyard chickens.

Watering Systems and Ideas to Water Backyard Chickens

DIY chicken watering systems

Many chicken owners like to add just a few drops of apple cider vinegar to their chickens’ water to prevent parasites and help with calcium absorption.

It also helps deter algae growth.

A food grade bucket will be less likely to break down when exposed to vinegar.

Simple “No Frills” DIY Chicken Watering System

This is the easiest and least expensive watering system to build of all the devices here.

You can also improvise freely using many different materials and get the same results.

You will need for DIY Chicken Watering Station:

1 empty #10 can

1 pie pan or sturdy plastic container

Here is how DIY Chicken Watering Station works:

Drill a small hole near the open end of the can.

Fill the can with water.

Place the pie pan on top of the #10 can.

Turn the whole thing over.

The pie pan will fill with water until the water is level with the hole.

DIY Chicken Watering Station

You can also use a plastic bottle.

Place a small hole near the bottom of the plastic bottle.

Glue the plastic bottle to the pie plate.

You can use a sandwich or similar food storage container.

Fill the plastic bottle from the top.

Water will drain from the bottom until the water in the food container covers the hole in the plastic bottle.

A one gallon bucket with or without a lid also works well.

If you use a bottle, keep it out of the sunlight as much as possible as sunlight encourages algae growth.

Also, be aware of the potential of freezing in winter.

2-5 Gallon Bucket

This DIY watering system for chickens uses a two or five gallon bucket.

Because these buckets have handles you can hang this device up by its handle or even set it on a low shelf or some bricks so the watering cups are off the ground.

Here is our favorite with nipples included: 2 Gallon Chicken Waterer – Horizontal Nipple Setup

DIY watering system for chickens You will need:

Two or five gallon bucket.

2 to 4 chicken watering cups.

You can order chicken watering cups online.

How to do DIY watering system for chickens

Drill holes near the bottom of the bucket to accommodate the watering cups.

Secure the cups into the holes.

Fill the bucket with water.

Chickens may need a little training, but they should catch on quickly to using the watering cups. Feeding Chickens: What They Need at Different Stages

DIY watering system for chickens

You can also drill holes into the bottom of the bucket and substitute chicken nipples for chicken watering cups.

DIY watering system for chickens Hacks

Make sure to use a dark colored bucket to hinder algae growth.

You should also make sure the bucket is made from good quality/food grade plastic to prevent chemicals from leaching into the water.

If you live in a climate where cold weather is a possibility, check on your watering system regularly to ensure that the cups or nipples have not frozen.

PVC Pipe Watering System

This system will make watering you birds a breeze.

No bending, or moving the device.

You will just be able to put water into the top.

As long as you keep the device closed, the water should stay free of contaminants.

PVC Pipe Watering System

Two lengths of 3-inch PVC pipe

One 3-inch pipe elbow

2 to 4 chicken watering nipples (available on Amazon)

PVC cement

Two 3-inch PVC end caps

How to do PVC Pipe Watering System

Drill holes in one length of the PVC pipe to accommodate the chicken nipples and screw them in.

Use the PVC cement to attach the two lengths of pipe to the elbow and the end cap at the end of the pipe with the nipples on it.

The other end cap should remain removable.

When you are finished, the device should be “L” shaped.

You can hang this device with the nipples running parallel to the ground and at a height that the chickens can access.

Add water by removing the top end cap and pouring it in.

The chickens and roosters may need to be shown how it works, but they should catch on pretty quickly.

Note: As with all of these watering systems, potential problems exist.

With this system, you have a good chance of avoiding algae growth as PVC is opaque.

However, if you live in a climate that gets cold in the winter, you do run the risk of the nipples freezing.

You should also check nipples periodically to ensure build up has not caused nipples to stop working properly.

Now that your chickens have clean water, they will want some recreation.

Here are the best chicken swings.

Chicken watering systems

To be healthy and happy, your backyard chickens need food, water and clean shelter.

(Facts about Raising Chickens in Your Backyard) As the keeper of the flock, it is your duty to ensure that they have those things.
(Successful Hen and Backyard Chicken Adoption) Incubation for Beginners

These ideas for watering systems can help make the job of getting your chickens fresh, clean water easier.

Clean water will help to make sure they stay healthy which means you will be able to enjoy your hens for a long time to come. Best Chicken Toys: Entertaining Your Backyard Chickens

Last Updated on May 1st, 2019

Chicken swings can be great fun for hens. They reduce coop boredom.

When you keep your chickens occupied and happy, they are less likely to peck at one another.

Chicken swings introduce activity, exercise and recreation for your brood.

We like to think of it as hen-tertainment.

When we bought these swings, our kids thought these were the best things ever.

They were as excited as if the swings were for them! Our family and neighbors have enjoyed watching our chickens swing and play.

Best Chicken Swings

The Chicken Swing – Fowl Play Products

This is the first chicken swing we installed, and it remains everyone’s (people and chicken’s) favorite.

It’s sturdy and well-built, bright and colorful.

The Chicken Swing is made from plastic and rope, and holds up well in all types of climates.

It was easy to mount. It’s adjustable for any coop size.

Like with all these swings, you will want to be sure there’s enough space for it to swing freely so it’s safe.

We first installed this swing when we had chicks. This is key. You will have much more success with chickens using this when they are adults if they start when they are young.

We made sure it was very low, about an inch off the ground.

The chicks were able to get used to it while they were young, energetic and curious.

As they grew, we raised the swing to 3 – 4″ off the ground. They still enjoy it to this day.

A concern for all chicken swings is the risk of injury during a vigorous dismount. The Chicken Swing comes with a fully adjustable cross-member which keeps the swing from twisting when the chickens dismount.

Depending on the area in which you hang it, when the hens have gotten used to it, you may want to put it high enough off the ground so the other chickens can be near it and under it safely, even when it’s swinging.

Two solid poly-pro ropes support the swing.

The perch is shaped like a small mailbox, with a corn-like surface the chickens can grip.

Pros of The Chicken Swing

UV and weather-resistant rope

Easy-to-install rope buckle makes it easy to adjust the height.

Safety side ties

Easy for chicks and chickens to grip and stay on.

Chickens can use it as a perch and a swing.

The perch tongues allow the swing to have more torque, so the chickens can swing easily.

It’s plastic — not wood — so it won’t warp.

It’s easy to clean.

Cons of The Chicken Swing (and all chicken swings)

Some chickens might be afraid of the swing so you may have to train them yourself

You may have better success with your chickens using the swing when you set it up when they are chicks or pullets.

Healthy Chicken Swing Perch

This is a simply chicken swing. It is very easy to install.

Like all chicken swings, its purpose is to keep chickens happy, active and entertained.

It will help keep them from being bored, which isn’t good for them.

The Healthy Chicken Swing Perch is made from durable wood to last a long time.

Strong ropes support the swing, giving it a solid suspension. You can adjust the ropes according to the size of your coop. The Healthy Chicken Swing Perch also comes with two carabiners which make the installation process easy.

Even if your chicken are of a large and heavy breed, this swing will hold them.

What makes this one different is that there is sandpaper covering the perch so the chickens can sharpen their nails.

Pros of the Healthy Chicken Swing Perch

The swing is very sturdy, durable and easy to assemble.

The materials are good quality and safe for your chickens.

Sandpaper on the perch helps to sharpen their nails.

The perch is wide enough for all sizes to perch comfortably.

Cons of this swing

It can be a little wobbly especially when the chickens mount or dismount vigorously. This may scare your chickens.

Even with the best chicken swings, some chickens may not find it appealing.

It helps to “train” them with treats when they are younger (chicks preferably) or when you first get them. It still works with pullets and adult hens but each will have their own personality. It’s better to start when they are young.

Bwogue Wooden Chicken Flexible Ladder, Parrot Chicken Swing, Toy

This is the least expensive of the best chicken swings. It’s also a versatile swing in that it’s a swing/ladder. Chickens can perch on it to rock, or they can walk across it for fun.

It’s great for chicks.

When our now chickens were chicks, they loved this wooden chicken ladder made by Bwogue.

So know that adult chickens might not find it to be stable enough. Ours were a bit afraid of it, and then ignored it completely.

However, it is such a well-made and colorful addition to our chicken coop, aka The Brood Lodge, that we keep it up for aesthetics.

When we get chicks again, we know they will love it.

We will enjoy watching them try to knock each other off the ladder! We will be ready with the video camera the next go around!

If you have bold and fearless chickens, they may love this.

Let them stretch their wings, perch and hop in fun with this flexible ladder.

It mimics the actual climbing process and is great for all breeds. It will entertain them and keep them active.

There are two lengths to choose from:  31.5″ long and 47.2″ long. The ladder is made from wood and steel materials.

A steel wire runs throughout the ladder to support it against the weight of the birds.

The ladder rungs are wooden.

You can detach the chicken ladder easily with quick link fasteners that allow you to attach it to a fence or post or on the side of your coop.

Chickens love climbing, and you will enjoy seeing them on this ladder swing.

Pros of the Bwogue Wooden Chicken Ladder Swing

The steel wire gives the ladder additional strength to accommodate the chicken.

Natural wood also gives the ladder an authentic feel.

You can detach it easily and hang it anywhere in a short time.

It comes in two lengths: 47.2″ and 31.5″

More than one chick or hen can be on it at once.

It’s versatile. The chickens can walk across or perch and rock.

Cons for this wooden ladder swing

The sideways swinging motion might scare some birds.

You most likely will need to start training your chicks to use this and hope they continue to use it as chickens.

Also, note there seem to be different brands for what-seems-to-be the same chicken flexible ladder. We are reviewing the one from BWOGUE.

Lanermoon Chicken Swing

This is another chicken swing to consider. It’s bare bones as far as materials. However, it does include bells to add to the chicken’s entertainment. 

We didn’t purchase this swing and haven’t tried it so we aren’t reviewing it. However, you can learn more about it here.

Chicken swings are fun Chicken toys

Did you ever imagine yourself buying a swing for your chickens?! As more people raise backyard chickens, companies are coming up with ways to keep them busy. Many people consider them as pets, giving them names, etc.

Many people may enjoy DIY chicken swings. If you are handy, it can be a fun project.

The most important thing is to be sure the swing is SAFE. Remember, design it so there is no way the chickens would get caught up in the ropes.

It’s great to spoil your girls and keep them occupied. 

Introducing chicken swings can be a welcome distraction for them. Chicken swings and chicken toys can add some excitement and fun.

Having tried the three swings, The Chicken Swing from Fowl Play Products scores highly on safety, durability, design for assembly and effectiveness.

It’s our favorite.

Facts about Raising Chickens in Your Backyard
How to Keep Chickens Cool in the Summer Heat
Pros and Cons of Keeping a Rooster
Chicken Watering Systems and Ideas

Comparing chicken swings

And remember, even if all of your chickens and roosters don’t hop on to the swings, they will still find it interesting. They may have fun pushing it around and find it a novelty.

Sometimes, the bold ones will lead the more timid ones.

You will have great fun watching their personalities shine through.